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chicken coop

Breaking Down The Cost Of Chickens For Eggs

by From Scratch Farmstead August 13, 2023

How much do backyard chickens cost? Will they pay for themselves? Can I even make money selling eggs? These are common questions when considering a flock of laying hens. Let’s break down the cost of chickens—both to get started and monthly.

Your Cost For Chickens Will Vary

Everyone’s costs for raising chickens will be different. Your costs will depend on the number of chickens you have and their breed, your chicken coop setup, how you raise your chickens, and your location.

In this post we’ll mostly be looking at OUR personal costs for raising backyard chickens on our 5 acre homestead. We’ll also be sharing some of our experience and costs of raising chickens in our backyard when we lived in the suburbs.

As a baseline, we currently live on the outskirts of suburbia in a semi-rural area in the midwest. The prices we reference here are the prices we found locally in our area as of August, 2023.

If you live in a more urban area, you may find pricing to range 10-20% higher. If you’re more rural, you may be able to find comparable items for 10-20% lower. At least that’s been our experience first living in the suburbs, then moving to the country, then moving to our current spot.

To breakdown the cost of chickens, you need to look at both the one-time start up costs, along with the monthly or annual ongoing costs. So let’s start there!

Startup Costs for Backyard Chickens

You should be able to get started with backyard chickens for around $500-$1,000. Your most significant cost will likely be your coop. The remainder of the supplies are pretty basic and won’t cost you an arm and a leg.

Let’s look at what you’ll need:

Coop ($100-4,000)

When it comes to chicken coops, here are some things to consider:

Will I buy new or used?
Can I build it myself or will I buy something pre-made?
How many chickens will I want my coop to hold?
Will it be mobile or stationary?

free ranging chickens in a frame chicken tractor

All these factors will impact the cost of your coop. For instance, many used chicken coops can be found on second hand sites like Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for a few hundred dollars or less. This is a great route if you’re looking for something cost effective to get you started. Building your own coop can also save quite a bit by only needing to purchase the materials.

More and more custom chicken coop builders are popping up that make gorgeous, picturesque looking coops. While they’ll make your backyard look magazine worthy, expect to pay a premium price—likely in the $2,000-$4,000 range, or more.

Another category are mobile chicken coops called chicken tractors. Some are designed to slide on skids or rails, while others have wheels. Some chicken tractors are even built on top of a trailer. Chicken tractors can sometimes cost more than a standard stationary coop.

If you are starting out and looking for a pretty basic kit chicken coop, you’ll want to budget in the $500-$1,000 range.

tractor supply chicken coop options 2023

Predator Proofing ($50-100)

Don’t overlook predator proofing! Just buying a coop and setting it up on the ground with the underside exposed will likely end in disaster!

Have a plan to predator proof your coop before it’s in place. Our post—Predator Proof Chicken Coop Essentials You Need To Know—can help you think through what is needed for keeping your chickens safe in your coop.

At a minimum, I’d recommend an apron of hardware cloth along the base of the coop. Or, better yet, digging under the entire coop and lining the underside with hardware cloth to assure nothing will dig under. Hardware cloth or other predator proofing measures can be pricey and time consuming, but it’s money well spent.

At a minimum, I’d recommend budgeting $50-$100 dollars to buy some basic supplies and make sure your coop is as secure as possible.

Feeder & Waterer ($50)

Most chicken coops will need one feeder and one waterer. These typically cost about $25 each for an average size. Larger sizes will cost more. Smaller sizes will cost less.

There’s lots of different designs out there, but we’ve always just used this basic feeder and waterer and had a good experience.

metal chicken feeder for backyard chickens

Winter Chicken Supplies ($50)

This may or may not apply depending on your area, but if you’re in a cold region where temps get below freezing on a regular basis during the winter months, you’ll need some additional supplies.

First up is a way to keep your waterer from freezing. There’s plenty of options for heated bases or even waterers with a built-in heating element at your local farm supply stores. These provide a simple starting point.

The thing I’ve found is that all heating elements eventually fail and, when that happens, you need to just start over and buy a whole new one. That’s why I came up with this DIY Heated Waterer Base design that has worked great for us for a few years now. Plus, all the parts are easily replaceable!

heated waterer keeping water from freezing in coop

If your coop is exposed to the elements you’ll also need a way to cut down on frosty drafts and possibly even insulate the coop. This can be as simple as wrapping part of your coop in plastic sheeting or stacking some bales of straw around your coop for added warmth and wind protection.

Check out our Keeping Chickens In The Winter guide for more on that.

Brooder ($20-$40)

Starting with baby chicks is usually recommended for new chicken keepers. This gives your chickens a chance to bond to you, you to them, and them to each other for the most cohesive flock experience.

While raising baby chicks doesn’t require a degree in animal husbandry, you will be caring for them in their most vulnerable state and will want to make sure they have what they need. A brooder is your starting point for this, which is a box or small space that has all the basics your chicks need like food, water, a source of heat, and dry bedding.

If you’re only raising a few chicks, many simply use a plastic storage tote for this. We started with a heavy duty cardboard box in our living room. If you have 10 or more chicks, you may need a larger brooder. We’ve used both a spare stock tank and a shipping crate and converted them into fine brooders for raising 30-40 chicks at a time.

You most likely have a box or tote on hand you can use as a makeshift brooder to get started. Or buying one may cost $10 or less. Add a heat lamp and bulb ($20) and a bag of bedding ($10 or less) and you’re ready to go with a brooder for around $20-40.

Chicks ($2-$10/ea.)

Yes, chicks! Finally the fun part! Depending on your location and the options that are available, chicks can either be quite inexpensive, or quite costly.

On the low end, chicks will cost around $2 each from a local hatchery. Buying the same chicks from your local farm supply store or feed shop will likely bring them to the $4-$6 range. And really remote areas without great retail or delivery options may find them significantly marked up.

Sometimes you can also find pullets. These are young chickens anywhere between 4-16 weeks of age that have not yet started to lay eggs. The benefit is that pullets will begin laying eggs for you sooner. Plus, they’ve already survived the most fragile early days and weeks of a young chickens life. Pullets will cost anywhere between $15-$35 depending on the age and breed.

Run/Fencing (*optional)

A chicken coop run is a larger open area, separate from the enclosed area of the coop, where chickens can roam and forage in. Many coops come with a run already built in. If not, or if your run seems small, you’ll want to consider how your chickens will get plenty of access to the great outdoors.

Building a run is usually less costly than building a coop. Runs are often constructed with a wood, metal, or PVC frame that is lined with either a netting or mesh like hardware cloth or chicken wire to keep chickens in and predators out. Kits for runs also exist.

chicken coop with large run protected by netting

Alternatively, you also have the option to free-range your chickens. When free ranging—depending on your setup and location—you may need to consider fencing to keep your chickens from meandering too far from the coop.

When we lived in the suburbs we started with some basic fence posts and snow fencing. This cost us around $100 and worked alright. Poultry netting is a more secure route to go, but expect to pay at least a few hundred dollars to get started with a couple sections of electro-netting fencing and and an electric fence energizer. Permanent fencing will cost significantly more.

*The cost of chicken runs and fencing can vary widely. This category is optional and entirely customized to your needs. But it’s worth mentioning here as a potential startup cost for chickens. Your best bet is to consider your needs, look into options, and price everything out accordingly. Additional run space or fencing might also be something you can add as needed down the road.

TOTAL STARTUP COSTS

Say you are planning to go out to your local farm supply store to pick up 6 baby chicks, set up a basic brooder, purchase a standard coop with no extra run/fencing needed, some predator proofing, feeder, waterer, and basic winter supplies, you’re looking at about $720 to get started.

cost of chickens - one time startup costs

There are lots of ways to spend less—like buy a used coop and supplies or build everything yourself. And you can certainly spend more. But this gives you a ballpark number for just going out and purchasing the basic kit coop and supplies to get started with a small flock of backyard chickens.

Monthly Costs for Backyard Chickens

On average, we spend roughly $200 per month for around 50 laying hens, or about $4 per chicken. If you calculate the low end and high end of what is costs to raise a chicken, expect to pay between $3-$8 per chicken each month.

cost of chickens - ongoing monthly costs

As we saw above, the one-time startup costs for chickens can be pretty reasonable. But the ongoing monthly expenses are really what will add up and be most significant over time.

This is why we encourage you to really do your homework upfront in the following cost categories. Doing so will help you set realistic expectations for what it will cost monthly and annually to keep your feathery flock happy and healthy all year—and not be shaking your fist at the ongoing expenses.

Let’s look further into each category.

Chicks ($2-$10/ea.)

Yes, baby chicks were in the startup costs. But if you plan to keep your flock in peak laying mode, replacing older hens, maybe even yearly, is the way to go.

The older a hen gets, the less eggs they will produce. Beyond a couple years old, it gets hard to justify keeping them around solely based on egg production. When this is the case, raising up new replacements is in order.

To maintain our flock of around 50 layers, we get 30 new chicks every spring. There’s always a couple chicks that don’t make it, we typically lose a few hens every year to hawks, and then we cull off a good chunk of our oldest birds that aren’t producing as much anymore.

Culling is intentionally reducing your flock size. You can do this by re-homing some hens, selling them, or turning them into stew hens. While this can be a challenging and emotional part of the chicken raising process, it also gives you the opportunity to bring new hens into your flock and keep egg production up!

Feed ($14-40/bag)

Feed will be your most significant monthly cost for backyard chickens. Your local feed store or farm store will likely have no shortage of options and the price point of each can vary widely.

A single chicken will typically eat between a 1/2 cup – 1 cup of feed daily. This can vary based on the seasons; chickens will often eat more in colder winter temps to keep their body temps up; and they may cut back on feed intake during the warmer summer months. For chickens that are laying, you will want to look for a protein content of at least 16-18%

Just like people food, you pay for quality ingredients. Organic feed mixes will be more expensive than non-organic. Higher protein ratios, or higher quality sources of protein, will cost more too. Some feeds avoid certain ingredients like soy; often a soy-free feed will cost more. Pelleted feeds can help reduce waste, but often cost a few dollars more per bag compared to the crumble version.

I did some scoping out of the chicken feed options in our area. The lowest cost was around $14 per 40# bag for the economy, conventionally grown, 16% protein mix. Organic layer mixes with 18% protein ranged anywhere from $22-$40 per 40# bag.

Until recently, we’ve always purchased a high quality organic feed from our local feed store. The health returned to us in the most nutrient dense eggs possible has always been worth the added cost for us.

Now, we actually discovered a local organic grain grower who bags up his own mix of organic feed. Because his overhead is low and he’s selling direct to customer, he’s able to offer a very reasonable price—$22 per 50# bag. If you do some digging, these types of options may be available in your area.

Bedding ($5-$10)

Keeping your chicken coop dry and clean is a must. Therefore, you’ll want to keep on top of replacing bedding often.

The most common bedding options for chicken coops are wood shavings or straw. A bag of wood shavings typically costs $5-10. A bale of straw will also be about that same price range.

How much bedding is needed can really depend on the size of your coop and how much ability your chickens have to free range. Chickens that are cooped up all day will dirty up fresh bedding much faster than chickens that are free ranging outside the coop.

wood shavings for bedding at tractor supply

When we had one small backyard coop with 6 chickens, one bag or bale of bedding would normally last us multiple months. Now, with our larger coop inside our barn where the chickens free range all day, I plan on about 1 bale of straw each month that costs $5. You’ll also want to plan on extra bedding during the winter months where excess moisture buildup can lead to frostbite and other ailments.

A moveable chicken tractor is also a way to reduce the need for bedding. The enclosed area where chickens sleep will still need fresh bedding. But the coop itself is moved to fresh grass regularly eliminating the need for bedding in the run portion.

Bedding costs will vary based on how much you apply and how regularly you clean your coop.

Oyster Shells ($18/yr.)

Oyster shells provide 2 things critical to the overall health of a chicken—grit and calcium.

Grit is necessary for chickens to have proper digestion. And calcium is a critical component for egg production.

We give our chickens free choice access to oyster shells. A 50# bag costs around $18. We also supplement with giving them crushed egg shells for an extra calcium boost. The crushed egg shells are free since we recycle them from eggs we consume.

With the addition of eggshells, we use the oyster shells somewhat sparingly. I buy about one 50# bag of oyster shells per year for our flock of 50 chickens. When we had a smaller backyard flock with 10 or less chickens, one 50# bag lasted us multiple years.

Electrolytes ($5)

Electrolytes help keep your chickens healthy and hydrated. We’ve found this to be most critical for baby chicks. We don’t give our full grown chickens electrolytes as often, but still find it beneficial for their overall health.

Our favorite electrolyte is apple cider vinegar. One bottle of organic apple cider vinegar will cost around $5 at the grocery store and lasts us about a month. Plus, they get the added probiotic benefit that ACV offers. Just add a couple glugs into the chickens waterer every time you fill it and you’re all set.

Emergency Chicken Supplies

We’ve found a few home chicken remedies helpful to have on hand. Or, at least know where they’re available for quick pickup locally if issues pop up in the flock.

The first is Blu Kote. This antiseptic dye is our go-to healer any time a chicken gets a wound. Not only does it help heal wounds quickly, but the blue dye hides blood. Blood can send chickens into a frenzy where they start pecking at the wounded chicken making things much worse.

Sometimes, chickens can become egg bound or even have a prolapsed vent. For this, dissolving epsom salts or magnesium flakes into a warm water bath to help ease your chicken may just do the trick.

Chicken Treats (Optional)

While there are many gadgets and gismos, toys and treats out there for chickens, we like to keep it basic. Give them high quality food, safe shelter, and the freedom to go out and forage, and your chickens will be living their best life!

chickens eating black soldier fly larvae

But sometimes, an extra source of protein is an extra special, and maybe even necessary, treat.

Meal worms and black soldier fly larvae are two common options to give your flock some supplemental protein. We don’t go crazy and give them these treats every day. But on occasion, and especially in the wintertime when foraging for bugs is limited, some added protein can really help improve their overall health.

What DON’T We Spend Money On

Everyone has different opinions on how to raise chickens and what to spend money on. So, from our viewpoint, here are things we avoid purchasing.

Egg Cartons

Unless you are really planning on going after an egg laying business and dead set on having your own unique packaging/branding, buying egg cartons just isn’t a necessity.

Any time we are getting low, we just put it out there to family and friends, and someone is always willing to collect up a massive stash of egg cartons to bring you.

Buying eggs in mismatched cartons is just part of the charm of buying farm fresh eggs!

Vet Bills

We have never had a vet look at our chickens. Yes, we’ve lost some chickens from sickness along the way. It’s hard and tragic every time.

But we’ve never been able to justify the high cost of bringing them to a vet. And from what we’ve heard, there is little a vet can do for a chicken in many cases.

This is why we prefer to have some home remedy options available to be able act quickly, and inexpensively when issues do pop up. And, just like with people, the more you’re able to give your chickens the best diet possible and raise them in clean and healthy conditions, the more long-term health issues you’ll be able to avoid.

Bedding

When we lived in the suburbs, we almost never purchased bedding. This is because we used mulch for bedding and mulch can often come free. Most communities have a free mulch pickup spot available if you do some searching.

I found mulch to be a fine bedding substitute and loved that I never had to pay for it. I would still have a bag of wood shavings to put in the laying boxes, but 1 bag would last a long while.

Heat Lamps

Yes, you’ll probably need a heat lamp for a chick brooder. The other time you might be inclined to plug in the heat lamp for your girls is during the winter. Don’t! It’s not necessary and it can be dangerous!

Plus, the other cost of heat lamps that often goes unnoticed is the constant suck of power that will skyrocket your electrical bill! We notice the jump up every spring for the month or so when chicks are in the brooder and 1 or 2 heat lamps are running.

Find other ways to cut down drafts or insulate the coop and avoid paying the huge utility bills for those heat lamps all winter long.

How Many Eggs Will I Get From Backyard Chickens?

You can’t fully analyze the cost of chickens without understanding what you get from them in return—eggs.

Egg production fluctuates. There are seasons where egg production is high and stable. And there are seasons where egg production bottoms out and is unpredictable.

A chickens egg production can be impacted by: their age, if they are molting, length of daylight, weather extremes, breed of chicken, feed quality and quantity, stress levels, predator pressure, and injury or illness.

The most productive breeds of chickens will typically lay around 250 eggs per year—some more, some less. Or, to phrase it another way, they would lay eggs two days in a row, then take the 3rd day off.

The issue is that chickens are usually only in peak laying form during their first year or two of life. Beyond this, their egg laying will decline each year. Keeping your flock in peak production requires a significant and intentional effort to raise up new replacement layers and cull off those who’s production has dropped.

Plus, when raising from baby chicks, egg laying won’t even begin until they’re 18-22 weeks old.

While we’ve enjoyed seasons of higher production, our current flock of 50 chickens have only been giving us 12 eggs on average for the last month. At $200 per month in expenses, that’s a tough one to swallow!

But the breakdown of that flock is around 20 layers and around 30 pullets. The layers are either 1.5 or 2.5 years old and some are molting. And the pullets are all getting close to laying, but not there yet. And it doesn’t help that we lost around 5 of our prime layers to hawks in the last couple months!

Our goal here is to paint a realistic (not bleak!) picture of egg production. Once our 30 pullets start laying, things will turn around quickly. But right now, our family of 6 that eats about a dozen eggs a day is barely getting what we need!

Can Backyard Chickens Pay For Themselves Or Earn Income?

In short, yes. Backyard chickens can definitely pay for themselves or even earn you income as a side business. But, as we just looked at the realities of fluctuating egg production above, don’t expect it to be a walk in the park.

We’ll use our family’s flock of 50 laying hens as an example. At $200 per month, we have around $2,400 each year in expenses to raise our chickens.

The going rate for organic, free-range eggs in our area is $5-7 per dozen—we sell ours for $5/dz. This chart shows our earnings potential at different egg laying intervals.

cost of chickens - egg production vs earnings potential

The chart itself is overly simplified. The reality is that our family alone eats around 1 dozen eggs a day, which is not reflected in these numbers.

So with only receiving 1 dozen eggs a day from our flock in their lowest production, not only are we barely keeping up with our family’s needs, but we’d actually be spending less to buy eggs from someone locally at that rate.

Only when our flock hits or exceeds the 2 dozen eggs per day mark do we come close to breaking even and having the chickens pay for themselves.

At 3 dozen eggs per day, with 1 dozen eggs going to our family, 2 dozen eggs being sold at $5/dz., and taking out our annual expenses of $2,400, then we finally see a modest profit of $1,250.

Maybe your family doesn’t eat as many eggs are ours. And if we wanted to, we could probably sell eggs at $6/dz. and make a bit more. But as you can see from this scale and example, you’re likely not going to get rich off selling eggs. But it can provide some extra spending cash!

That’s why we’ve always aimed for having our chickens pay for themselves with egg sales. This seems like the right blend of achievable and a worthwhile investment of our time and dollars.

Are Backyard Chickens Worth It?

In our honest opinion, cost is not a significant factor for or against keeping backyard chickens. Buying eggs from a local farm would likely be the most cost effective option for us; and certainly the most convenient when you consider our time investment.

But there are so many non-monetary benefits that we get every day from our feathery friends!

Our kids get introduced to daily responsibilities like collecting eggs and giving them food and water.

We enjoy hours of free entertainment with their peculiar mannerisms and goofy waddles.

We get to be part of growing a resilient and localized food system that sees the frailty of globally produced factory foods.

Those are things you can’t put a price tag on. And that’s why we’ll always say backyard chickens are worth it, regardless of the cost!

How about you? Where are you at in your chicken journey or where do your costs fall? Drop us a comment! We’d love to hear from you 🙂

Some of the above links are affiliate links. This means we earn a small commission on qualifying purchases at no cost to you. We are so appreciative of your support!

Blu Kote for Chickens – Save Your Chicken’s Life!

by From Scratch Farmstead July 28, 2023

When you begin the adventure of backyard chicken keeping, those feathery friends can quickly become a well-loved part of the family. But what do you do when something goes awry? For those rare occasions, one of our favorite tools in our medicine cabinet is Blu Kote for chickens! Let’s talk about what Blu Kote is and why it can be so effective for chickens.

What is Blu Kote?

According to the National Institute of Health, “BLU-KOTE® is a germicidal, fungicidal, wound dressing and healing aid effective against both bacterial and fungus infections most common in skin lesions of domestic animals.”

From our research the main active ingredient in Blu Kote is Gentian Violet. The creation of Gentian Violet is attributed to Charles Lauth, French Chemist in 1861. In 1880 it became more well known thanks to German pharmacist George Grubler. It has long been touted for its anti-septic, anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and anti-viral properties.

Dr. Naylor Blu-Kote wound dressing for chickens

Dr. Naylor’s Blu-Kote, the most popular product on the market and the one we have experience with, was founded in 1926 by veterinarian, Dr. Naylor. After being frustrated by the subpar animal practices he was seeing, Naylor created his own treatments using pipe cleaners, wax, and antiseptic balm. This began the family owned and operated business that still exists today nearly 100 years later.

Our Story with Blu Kote for Chickens

For the past three years now, we’ve raised meat chickens in chicken tractors on our homestead. The chickens are moved twice a day so they have access to plenty of fresh pasture. But every year we’ve come up against the same problem.

Inevitably at some point, we’ll discover a chicken with some sort of small wound of injury. When chickens see the color red or spot blood, in their nature they tend to go into attack mode, even being cannibalistic. Because the chickens are enclosed in the tractor, the poor wounded bird has no place to go and can quickly fall victim to persistent pecks from the rest of the flock. This will quickly lead to serious injury or even result in chicken death.

freedom ranger chicken in chicken tractor

The first year we noticed a chicken with a small wound, we took note but since it looked very minor, we didn’t think much of it. But, within a couple hours when we went back to check on her, we found the poor chicken dead.

We were shocked and needed a plan to prevent such a thing from happening again. And that’s when we discovered Blu Kote.

Blu Kote Saved Our Chicken’s Life!

The beauty of Blu Kote for chickens is not just its ability to heal, but also its ability to cover up!

As the name implies, Blu Kote is a dye that literally turns the skin a blue or purple color. So, when placed on a chicken, not only does it help heal the injured area, it also hides the blood from the wound keeping other chickens from picking on that chicken.

This past year, we found ourselves in a similar position. We discovered a chicken in our chicken tractor with a small wound. Immediately, we went and got the Blu Kote, applied it to the wound, kept her in the tractor, and monitored things closely. A few hours later, she was untouched. A few days later, her wound was completely healed.

chicken with large wound treated with blue kote — A hen from our laying flock with a large flesh wound who had a full recovery with Blu Kote!

This is just one of a few examples that we have of successfully using Blu Kote to heal one of our chicken’s wounds and protect them from any potential attack. We are sold.

How To Apply Blu Kote and How Often

To apply, securely hold your chicken and carefully apply Blu Kote so that it completely covers the wounded area. If the wound is dirty, clean and dry prior to applying Blu Kote.

The beauty of Blu Kote is that, because of the purple stain it leaves, it’s very obvious where it has been placed. When applying with the dauber, the blue dye has a tendency to spread beyond the initial point of contact. I like to wait a few seconds after applying to see if it covers what I need before going too crazy upfront.

injured chicken we will be treating with blu kote

applying blu-kote to chicken with large flesh wound

Dr. Naylor recommends reapplying Blu-Kote, “morning and night or as required.” We’ve always applied once and monitored from there. Small wounds may heal up after one application. More significant wounds will likely require more frequent applications and more careful monitoring.

The first couple days are crucial to keep a close eye on your chicken to make sure they’re not getting pecked at. If the wound does open up again and blood becomes visible, be sure to reapply Blu Kote right away. Separating your chicken for a period of time may also be necessary.

Cautions Using Blu Kote for Chickens

If you start digging into the research on Blu Kote, it is not free from risks. There has been some evidence of the association between Gentian Violet use being a risk factor for cancer. This is primarily from a study that gave mice and rats moderate to high levels of Gentian Violet orally for two years resulting in tumors in various organs. From the current research we have found, there have been no reports linking Gentian Violet to cancer in humans, or from occasional topical use on animals.

For us, we do not take lightly the products we put onto and into our bodies. With Blu Kote, we’d never recommend applying excessively or orally. Blu Kote is not a natural substance but a synthetic liquid made in a lab. However, we’ve found the benefits to outweigh the potential risks in these isolated instances when it could easily mean life or death for our chickens.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Blu Kote product do you recommend?

We only have experience using Dr. Naylor’s Blu-Kote. It comes in a spritz, an aerosol spray, and a dauber. Our personal preference is the dauber. This allows you to have the most control over exactly where the Blu Kote is placed.

Where can I purchase Blu Kote?

We picked it up from our local Tractor Supply but Blu Kote is also sold at Chewy, Jeffers Pet, Blain’s Farm and Fleet, Walmart, Big Dee’s Tack & Vet Supply, QC Supply, Mills Fleet Farm, or can be purchased on Amazon.

Do you recommend always having Blu Kote on hand?

With the number of chickens we raise, and especially with raising meat chickens in chicken tractors, we plan to always have it on hand. At a minimum, check your local farm and animal supply stores and know where it is available. When the need comes up, you will want it quick!

suscovich chicken tractor with metal roof

Can Blu Kote treat bumblefoot in chickens?

Yes. The Dr. Naylor product details note Blu-Kote as being effective in treating bumblefoot in chickens.

What if I get Blu Kote on myself?

You definitely want to be careful when applying Blu Kote. It can easily stain your hands or clothing. We always make a point to wear old clothing that we don’t care about when we will be applying Blu Kote. If you do get it on your skin, quickly and thoroughly wash with soap and water and I promise, it will come off, eventually. 😊 Another measure of protection is to wear rubber gloves when applying.

How long will Blu Kote stain my chicken?

We have found that the Blu Kote will remain on their skin or feathers for a few days or weeks. It will come off over time.

Can Blu Kote be used for other animals?

Yes! It is compatible with sheep, deer, elk, turkey, moose, lamb, pigs, antelope, chickens, livestock, horses, emu, bison, goats, dogs, llama, donkey, cattle, and poultry. According to Dr. Naylor, just don’t use it on cats.

In fact, we initially picked up Blu-note when our Livestock Guardian Dog, Stella, came down with some nasty wounds around her ears. Even though her white ears were purple for a good month, the wounds healed up nicely!

Maremma with Gentian Violet wound dressing on ears

What’s been your experience using Blu Kote on your chickens? We’d love to hear in the comments.

Some of the above links are affiliate links. This means we earn a small commission on qualifying purchases at no cost to you. We are so appreciative of your support!

For more on keeping backyard chickens, check out:

Chicken Prolapsed Vent | Simple Remedies For Natural Recovery
Cornish Cross Vs. Freedom Ranger Chickens
Predator Proof Chicken Coop Essentials You Need To Know
Easy DIY Heated Chicken Waterer
How To Care For Chickens In The Winter Basics
How To Care For Baby Chicks
Feeding Chickens Egg Shells (Why, When, & How)
Custom A-Frame Chicken Tractor For (Almost) Free

July 28, 2023 0 comment

Chickens Homestead How-to's

What Should Be Inside A Chicken Coop – Easy Guide!

by From Scratch Farmstead July 22, 2023

You’re thinking about backyard chickens. Or getting them soon. Great choice! We’re convinced chickens will be a great addition to your backyard or homestead. Let’s talk about what should be inside a chicken coop and why.

Don’t Be Intimidated By Backyard Chickens!

I’ll never forget the day I setup our first chicken coop in our backyard. It was a mix of many emotions.

First was excitement! It was the start of something new in our lives and we could sense that keeping chickens would be life changing for us.

Second was a bit of apprehension. There was so much unknown for us first time chicken keepers and wannabe homesteaders. It was a big step!

Third was sadness. What spurred on the sudden chicken coop building that day was receiving some difficult news. We were in a season of trying to grow our family and found out that morning we had miscarried our first baby. In our longing to parent something and as a way to cope, Joelle gave me the express task of building our coop!

stationary coop - what should be inside a backyard chicken coop

Prior, this kit coop had sat in the box in our garage for quite some time. Even though we had wanted backyard chickens. Even though we specifically moved to an area where we knew backyard chickens were allowed. Getting started still just felt SO intimidating.

But now we were going for it!

There was so much mystery shrouded in these feathery, egg laying creatures when we started. But, fast forward to today, after a decade or so of chicken keeping, it now all seems like second nature and we couldn’t imagine life without them!

5 Reasons We LOVE Backyard Chickens!

If you’re not yet fully convinced about getting backyard chickens, here are some of the main benefits we’ve seen. And why we say, GO FOR IT!

1. Fresh Eggs!

Growing vegetables is lovely. But having your own source of protein right from your own yard every day is just an incredible feeling! That first time you pop open the laying box and behold a freshly laid egg is simply magical.

2. Chickens Are Calming

Entering the company of chickens is a great way to slow down and channel your inner peace. I call them my therapy chickens! There was nothing more I wanted to do than get home from a long day of work and be outside with the flock.

3. Great For Kids

If you have kids of any age, daily chicken chores are a great way to get them involved. From collecting eggs, to filling up food and water, to helping clean out the coop, kids can gradually take on entry level responsibilities and learn many valuable lessons and skills in the process.

4. Share The Love

Many chicken keepers find themselves with eggs to spare once their gals kick into gear. Selling or giving away a couple dozen eggs a week is a great way to either help your chickens pay for themselves or share the bounty with neighbors and friends.

5. They’re Fun!

Your backyard chickens will provide endless entertainment for your whole family! Watching them fight over a freshly plucked worm. Learning their goofy mannerisms and personalities. You’ll laugh. You’ll cry. You’ll keep coming back for more!

What Do I Need To Consider Before Setting Up My Chicken Coop?

We’ll get to what should be inside a chicken coop next. But before you even setup your chicken coop, there’s a couple very important things you’ll want to consider.

Predator Proofing

Hands down, the most crucial part of any chicken coop is making sure it is predator proof. And the best time to do this is before you even set your coop in place. The underside of the coop is often the most vulnerable point of entry for predators that can easily dig under. Our post—Predator Proof Chicken Coop Essentials You Need To Know—goes into much more detail. But aside from having secure latches and no large gaps or openings in the coop itself, you’ll likely want to dig out the footprint of the coop and line it with hardware cloth prior to placing your coop.

how we made our predator proof chicken coop

Location

There’s a lot to think through when placing your coop or laying out your homestead. Where and how will I store feed? Do I have a water source nearby to easily refill waterers? Can I place the coop along a hedge of trees or behind a garage that will offer some additional protection from wind and the elements. Are they in a spot I’ll often walk past to regularly check up on things? Once a chicken coop is in place, they can be tricky to move. It’s best to think things through upfront to avoid needing to relocate.

Brooder

More than likely, you’ll be starting with baby chicks and raising them into mature egg laying hens. In this case you’ll need a temporary home for baby chicks, which is called a brooder. Brooders don’t need to be fancy! Our first time raising chicks, we took the box that our coop came from, cut some openings in the top cover, spread wood shavings over the bottom, set it up in our living room, and raised our chicks in there for the first 8 weeks or so before moving them out to our coop.

WHAT SHOULD BE INSIDE A CHICKEN COOP?

There’s really no need to overthink a chicken coop. They’re very basic. And most starter coops will come with most of what you need to get going.

That said, here’s our list of the bare essentials every chicken coop needs:

1. Enough Space

You should have at least 4 sq. ft. of space per chicken in your coop. And that is a minimum! This can include both inside space in an enclosed area along with outside space in a run. The run is typically a larger area of the coop that gives your chickens extra space and access to dirt, grass, or other vegetation.

Our first coop had a run of roughly 6’x3’ and an enclosed area of roughly 3’x3’. It said it was suitable for 4-6 chickens. Six chickens always felt snug but doable. When chickens are too cramped they can get stressed resulting in aggression toward each other. To alleviate this, 1) make sure to not overpopulate your coop, 2) consider supervised or regular opportunities to free range outside the coop, or 3) build a larger run onto your coop.

2. Food & Water

A chicken feeder holds and dispenses chicken feed and a waterer holds and dispenses water. There’s a variety of styles for both. We’ve found it easiest to just stick with the most basic options, especially when starting out.

We use this feeder, which can hang or sit on the ground. And we’ve landed on using this waterer after trying a few. As much as we like to avoid plastic for holding water, we’ve found the galvanized models rust out after just a year or two. The plastic waterers have held up well for us and been easy to clean.

When it comes to feed, just like in the aisles of a grocery store, there can be many options. The price usually reflects the quality. You’ll pay more for organic versus conventional. You may pay more for the soy-free feed that utilizes an alternate protein source. Have someone at your local feed or farm store break down the options and go with the one that best aligns with your values.

Usually chicks will eat a starter feed their first few weeks of life, then switch to a grower feed, then transition to a layer feed around the time they start laying eggs. The difference being the protein content in each mix.

There’s nothing special about the water your chickens need. We just use a hose to fill up waterers. What’s important is making sure they always have enough water and that you keep it clean. They tend to kick dirt into their waterer or even poop in it. Consider raising it up a bit on blocks or by hanging and make sure to clean it regularly.

3. Roosting Bars

After a full day of pecking and scratching, your chickens will seek a spot that is high and safe to perch for the night. This is the roost where chickens sleep.

Roosting bars can be round or flat. Typically about a 2” wide bar is preferred, but they can be wider. Chickens seek higher ground at night where they’re least susceptible to predator attacks. So, the roost should be raised off the ground and will most likely be located in the enclosed area of the coop. You want to make sure there is enough space on your roosting bars for all of your chickens to fit. And you want enough space between the bars so they are not competing for space.

Many smaller coops have multiple horizontal roosting bars all on the same plane. You can also build a ladder style roost that rests at about a 45° angle. You just want to make sure there is ample space between the ladder rungs to keep chickens from pooping on each other!

4. Enclosure

A fully enclosed area of your coop is a must! A solid roof and walls serve as a shelter from the elements like rain storms, snow, or freezing temps. This space is also where the laying boxes are typically located providing your chickens with a bit more privacy than the open run. Plus, an enclosure gives you the option to lock up your chickens securely at night so nothing can get to them.

As a general rule of thumb, make sure the enclosed area has no gaps or openings larger than 1/2”. This area will also typically have a door for entry that can be opened or closed. Your best bet is to install a 2-step latch, such as a barrel or spring latch, on the door so no animal can open it up.

5. Dry Bedding

Especially in the enclosure, and sometimes in the run, you’ll want to make sure your chickens have clean and dry bedding in place. This is where poop collects in the coop and moisture is collected to keep your coop dry. Excess moisture and unsanitary conditions in the coop could lead to disease or sickness among your flock.

fresh bedding inside chicken coop enclosure

Some of the most common bedding materials are wood shavings, straw, or wood chips. Start with a thin 1″ or 2” layer down. You can always add multiple fresh layers of bedding on top as it gets saturated. Cleaning your coop and replacing fresh bedding is a necessary part of chicken keeping. Many coops have removable trays that can slide out and be easily dumped. Otherwise, you’ll need to get in there with a shovel or scooper to remove the old bedding.

You’ll want to clean your coop at least once a month, or more as needed. The winter especially may call for more frequent cleanings or bedding applications as excess moisture can lead to frostbite for your chickens.

6. Airflow

Every coop should have proper ventilation for fresh air. A common design mistake in coops is not building in some sort of opening in the enclosed area that can be opened or closed to allow for airflow. That opening should be lined with hardware cloth to prevent predators from entering through it.

In summertime, the enclosed area of your coop can get especially stuffy and hot. Opening your ventilation can help provide some relief and fresh air for your chickens. When winter sets in, you’ll likely be finding yourself closing up that ventilation to try and trap in heat. The key is to monitor your chickens and the weather and be regularly adjusting your ventilation to suit their needs.

custom a frame chicken tractor in suburban backyard

7. Laying Boxes

Laying boxes, or nesting boxes, will become a coveted space in your coop once your chickens are producing eggs. These roughly 1’x1’x1’ cubes are commonly located off the enclosed area of your coop with a hinged top cover that allows the chicken keeper easy access to collect eggs. A general rule of thumb is 1 laying box per 4 chickens. But you want 2 boxes minimum in your coop to ease up bottlenecks.

Laying boxes usually are lined with a soft bedding on bottom, are dark, and offer privacy. They are also a place to keep clean regularly as poop and sometimes broken eggs can dirty things up. The cleaner your laying boxes, the cleaner your eggs!

And you may not want to set your expectations that your chickens will lay eggs in the laying boxes every time. Some might. But others will throw you for a loop and lay elsewhere. You might find eggs in the run. Or, if your chickens free range, keep an eye out around the yard as chickens may very well start laying in another cozy, secluded looking spot.

8. Chickens!

Yes, your chicken coop will have chickens 🙂 We’ve had over 10 different chicken breeds over the years and haven’t found a bad one yet. Do some research, don’t overthink it, and get some chickens that strike your fancy!

Your location, climate, and preferences can impact your decision. For instance, some chicken breeds are better suited for colder temps while others are better suited for warmer temps. Some are more proficient free rangers than others if you plan to let them loose in your yard. And some are better egg layers if you’re looking for the best bang for your buck.

There are chicken breeds that are labeled as being more aggressive than others. However, we’ve found that if you raise them with kindness then they’ll most likely return kindness to you and each other. Yes, you’ll see the pecking order play out in the coop, which can seem nasty at times. This is instinctual for chickens and part of their social nature.

Regardless of what breed or breeds you get, you’ll grow to love your chickens unique personalities and enjoy the eggs they give you!

What Else Could Chickens Need Beyond the Basics?

We just covered the basics of the chicken coop—the minimum needed to get you up and running with backyard chickens. But, as you go, you may find your chickens have some additional needs.

Calcium

Chickens rely 100% on their diet for their calcium. And, as calcium is one of the main building blocks of eggshells, hens require a good amount of calcium intake for egg production. A typical feed, and even free range diet, will likely not provide enough calcium for chickens. A lack of calcium in the diet can result in soft egg shells or even longer term issues like weakened bones.

To get calcium into your chickens diet, there are two great options: oyster shells and eggshells. Most feed stores with chicken supplies will have bags of oyster shells. These are affordable and offer a great source of calcium. The grit they provide can also aid in a chickens digestion. Saving and recycling your chickens egg shells is another great way (and free way!) to add calcium into your chickens diet. Simply save the egg shells after consuming eggs, crush them into small pieces, and give them back to your chickens. Whether using oyster shells or eggshells, it important you give them to your chickens free choice. Don’t mix them into their feed.

Electrolytes and Minerals

Adding a splash of apple cider vinegar to your chickens water can help provide some much needed electrolytes and healthy gut bacteria. We’ve found this to be especially true when raising baby chicks to get them off to a strong start. The same is true for salt. We’ll often sprinkle Redmond Real Sea Salt into our chickens water for added electrolytes and minerals.

Additional Protein

When chickens are free ranging, they get a protein boost from the bugs, worms, and plants they have access to. Protein is vital for healthy egg production and other functions like feather growth. So, especially if your chickens are not free ranging, you may consider a supplemental protein source. Or, we like to give our chickens extra protein in the winter when there’s not much out for them to forage. Meal worms or black soldier fly larvae are two common protein options. Give them a sprinkle every now and again and your chickens will think it’s Christmas every time!

chicken eating black soldier fly larvae for extra protein

Care and Attention

In the end, your chicken coop is only as good as you—the chicken keeper! You need to be the one refilling feed, keeping fresh water topped off, cleaning things up, and making sure your chicken’s housing adapts with the changing seasons.

Issues can, and likely will, pop up. We’ve dealt with a chicken with a prolapsed vent. Chickens get wounds and require medical attention. The key is take a bit of time each day to observe. That way, when needs or issues do arise, you can respond quickly and take care of things in the coop right away.

Overall, we’ve found that chickens really can be pretty hands off. Keep their basic needs met by making sure they have the right space, and the right things within that space, and your chickens will be happy, healthy, and reward you with so much in return!

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Predator Proof Chicken Coop Essentials You Need To Know

by From Scratch Farmstead February 11, 2023

The reality of backyard chicken keeping is that predators come with the territory. It’s not a matter of IF, but WHEN. So, there are some must-do steps to make a predator proof chicken coop that every chicken keeper NEEDS to know and implement.

We had never lost a chicken, then…

We’re grateful in our 9+ years of keeping backyard chickens to have a pretty good track record.

This includes about 5 years of raising chickens in our suburban backyard where we never had a predator casualty! We started with free-ranging 6 hens out of a stationary coop and quickly learned two things:

1) Our chickens got more and more adventurous over time.
2) More and more predators took note of our chickens over time.

Hawks, raccoons, skunks, neighbor’s dogs, and even the family of foxes that moved in next door every winter. We ran up against all of it.

When foxes moved next door to our free ranging chickens

That’s when we discovered mobile coops and built an A-frame chicken tractor out of a used kids swing set. Moving them to fresh grass every day gave us many of the benefits of free-ranging while keeping them protected during the day and night. It worked great!

When we moved to our current 5-acre homestead, we expanded once again to 50+ chickens that roam free all day and sleep in our chicken coop inside our barn at night. That many chickens has come with its own learning curve. And because they free-range all day, predators have proven challenging to manage.

After some close calls, we finally lost our first chicken to a predator—a hawk! Another hawk casualty followed. Then, a rooster mysteriously disappeared one day—likely picked off by a fox. But, we’ve taken some measures and not had any incidents since!

Whether you’re on an urban or suburban lot, or out in the country, we’ll share everything we’ve learned about keeping your feathery flock safe all day and all night!

Common Chicken Predators

When it comes to predators, chickens are unfortunately an easy prey.

By day, chickens can be oblivious and flighty. By night, they sleep hard and are entirely immobile and vulnerable. Therefore, the list of predators can be lengthy!

Chicken Predator List:

Coyotes
Foxes
Racoons
Skunks
Rats
Opossums
Weasels
Bobcats
Bears
Birds of prey
Neighbor’s (or stray) dogs & cats
Snakes

Each predator represents different threats and at different times.

Coyotes, foxes, bobcats, dogs, and birds of prey might result in missing chickens that are taken. Smaller chickens, chicks, or eggs can be taken by smaller predators such as opossums, skunks, rats, cats, and snakes (while still including coyotes, foxes, and birds of prey). Predators like birds of prey and raccoons can also result in missing heads or limbs from chickens.

chickens roosting on diy 2x4 ladder roost design

Many predators like foxes and coyotes represent a dual threat during the day and night. Hawks will typically strike during the day while owls might carry off chickens in the evening. Most rodents are on the prowl at night, but could still be active in the early morning or evening hours.

Yes, the threats are many. But keeping your chickens safe is not a lost cause! With some basic measures, you can keep your feathery friends safe and put your mind at ease! Let’s dig in.

Predator Proofing Basics

Any chicken coop is comprised of 6 sides. The four walls of the coop, the top, and the bottom. To keep your chickens safe, all 6 sides must be secure.

If you are thinking your chickens are safe if the coop sits tightly to the ground, you are mistaken. Most of the predators on the above list can easily dig under a coop, even in a single night, to gain access.

And on top, even with a coop and run wrapped tightly in chicken wire or latches on every door, you birds may still be at risk! The materials and methods you use to secure your coop could make all the difference.

So let’s dig deeper into the essentials of a predator safe chicken coop.

5 Predator Proof Chicken Coop Essentials

Long lists of ways to predator proof your chicken coop can get overwhelming. We’ll look at some alternative options later in this post. But for now, let’s look at the simple predator proofing methods that every chicken keeper should implement.

1. Prevent Predators from Digging Under

As discussed above, the bottom side of a chicken coop is often the most under-looked point of entry for predators. Here are some options to address it.

Fully Enclosed Bottom Side

The ideal solution is to fully enclose the bottom side. This option makes the most sense for small sized coops. We did this for our stationary coop when living in the suburbs. I dug out the footprint of the whole coop 8-12” down. Then I lined the underside of the coop with hardware clothe bending the sides up to meet the bottom of the coop to create a continuous bottom barrier. Then, I filled the base of the coop back in with soil on top of the hardware cloth. With this solution, as long as all the doors were securely shut on top, the coop was 100% predator proof from all 6 sides.

Buried Hardware Cloth

As your coop increases in size, digging out the entire base gets pretty challenging. In this case, you can dig a trench around the base of your coop, and bury hardware cloth vertically at least 12” down. Most predators will try digging down right at the base of your chicken coop and get discouraged by the buried hardware cloth.

Similarly, an alternative is burying a hardware cloth apron around your coop. This involves digging a few inches deep around your coop, burying a horizontal layer of hardware cloth at least 12” wide, and then replacing the soil on top of it. While not as effective as hardware cloth buried vertically, this can be an easier addition to a coop that’s already in place.

Concrete Blocks

Yet another solution is to swap the buried hardware cloth option with either concrete blocks or bricks. This is what we did on our chicken coop inside our barn. The benefit is that the blocks can act as a solid foundation for your coop, especially if it’s on the larger side. Just a note to make sure your blocks still go down at least 12”. Our only went down 8”, and after some rats learned they can dig underneath the blocks this past winter, I’ll be needing to go in and retrofit some hardware cloth in addition.

installing concrete block chicken coop foundation

2. Use Hardware Cloth (when necessary)

While chicken wire is most commonly associated with chicken coops, it’s easier for predators to penetrate than you may think. And the hole sizes are large enough for some predators to reach through.

So, when able, use hardware cloth—chicken wires tougher, more robust cousin. Whereas some predators have been known to break through chicken wire, especially at ground level, hardware cloth will stand up to any common backyard chicken predator.

A few considerations:

1) Correct installation is important! Your hardware cloth is only as secure as the fastener holding it. Shallow staples may not hold tight enough to keep large predators out. When building our chicken coops and tractors, I bought 1/2” staples and used a pneumatic brad nailer to install them. Nothing is ripping those out!

2) Use 1/4” Hardware Cloth. Hardware cloth comes with many sizes of mesh openings. Sticking with 1/4” (1/2″ at most) is your best bet. Larger openings might allow predators to get a claw or mouth through it. And smaller predators, like rats or snakes, might be able to sneak through a larger opening. No predator should be able to do substantial harm through 1/4” hardware cloth.

3) Use it if it makes sense. Hardware cloth is expensive! Much more so than chicken wire. This is where the “when necessary” part comes into play. There are times where we’ve opted for chicken wire over hardware cloth and still feel our chickens are safe. For instance, predators are less likely to get through chicken wire when it’s raised off the ground. So, on our barn chicken coop, I built it with solid knee walls at the base, and then installed chicken wire above the walls.

chicken coop in barn with repurposed door

Also, when we built our mobile chicken tractor, I surrounded the run with chicken wire because the enclosed area that the chickens slept in at night was impenetrable. Nothing ever got to them at night and they were protected from aerial predators in the chicken wire run during the day.

3. Make Enclosed Coop Area Impenetrable

The enclosed area of your chicken coop should be able to be 100% sealed tight! This is where your chickens will sleep at night, roost, and lay eggs—the times they’re most vulnerable.

This means that:

Solid materials should be used (wood, metal, etc.)
No gaps, cracks, or openings should be greater than 1/4”
Doors should be able to be closed up completely and latched
Any air vents should be covered over with hardware cloth

stationary backyard chicken coop with hardware cloth

Chickens will begin to retreat to their roosting location as the daylight fades. This is also when predators become most active. Our strategy has always been to go out each evening and close the door of the enclosed area of the coop so the chickens are locked up safe. This way, even if something manages its way into the run, the chickens will still be protected within the coop.

4. Use Secure Door Latches

Going off of that, any time there is a door or access point in the coop, it’s important you install the right type of latch. Animals are smart—and motivated. Raccoons, for instance, have been known to open up simple hook, pin, or throw latches.

A 2-step lockable latch is most secure. This includes spring locks and barrel locks. These require more than just a simple and singular motion to unlock and will prove a bothersome task for any furry foe without opposable thumbs.

5. Be Observant and Vigilant Every Day

Perhaps the best defense of all is you! Your eyes and ears will help keep your flock protected when threats arise.

There have been numerous times we have heard a commotion in the yard and come bolting out the door only to narrowly interrupt a hungry hawk from dealing its deadly blow. Our takeaway has been, DON’T WAIT! When you hear something suspicious, run out there right away, or throw open the nearest window and yell with everything you got. Sometimes, each second matters!

feeder and waterer in a frame chicken tractor

Beyond the extremes of when predators do surface, your role as protector is also important in the mundane daily tasks and chores. Like checking, and then double-checking, that you’ve locked up the coop securely each night. When you’re lying in bed wondering, “Did I close up that latch I opened earlier in the day?”—ALWYAS go out there and check! It’s worth it every time. Even when we doubted, there have been countless times we did indeed leave something open.

And when you’re out doing chores and tending to your chickens each day, check for any signs of predators. Are there tracks around? Was something gnawing or digging? Is something moved or out of place? These things are sure signs predators are about and you should be extra vigilant. Or, you may need to reinforce an area of your coop.

Other Predator Safe Chicken Coop Ideas

Beyond the basics, these are other predator proof chicken coop ideas I have seen successfully implemented in backyard, homesteads, or farms.

Guardian Animals

Many animals or livestock can act as companion animals to help keep chickens safe. This is especially true when chickens are free-ranging and beyond the protection of the coop.

Here is a list of guardian animals that can protect your flock:

Roosters
Geese
Guineas
Livestock Guardian Dogs
Goats
Donkeys
Llamas
Cows
Pigs

While most urban or suburban settings won’t allow it, a rooster is a likely first candidate to guard your flock. Many roosters take their role of protecting the flock very seriously. Our roosters will accompany our hens when out foraging, keep a watchful eye, and alert them of any threats. Roosters will also stand their ground and may even give their life to protect the flock. We had a rooster mysteriously vanish without a trace, while no hens were harmed—likely from standing up to a predator.

free ranging chickens with roosters on guard

Livestock Guardian Dogs (LGDs) will also ward off predators. Stella, our Maremma LGD on our homestead, takes her role protecting our cows and chickens very seriously. Since getting her, we have rarely seen hawks come anywhere near our chickens where they were under attack almost weekly prior.

Maremma livestock guardian dog on a homestead

Electric Poultry Netting

Electro-netting fencing is a simple way to eliminate ground predator threats for your chickens. Companies like Premier 1 Supplies makes poultry netting setups that can surround your coop and run while also providing boundaries for free ranging.

We use this system for rotationally grazing our cows. So if it can contain our cows, it can keep chickens in and predators out! We also use it as a perimeter around our meat chickens we raise in Suscovich Chicken Tractors. They even make solar fence energizers that don’t require an electrical connection and are easy to install, connect to your fencing, and move around.

Predator Detterents

There are many simple or low cost predator deterrents that can be setup in your yard. Perhaps the most simple is to install a bright light on a motion sensor. Predators don’t like surprise or when things shift and change. Along those lines, there are sprinklers on motion sensors that you can setup near your coop and turn on when they detect motion. I’ve even seen someone setup one of those inflatable floppy people you see at car dealerships to keep predators away. And supposedly it worked!

Removing Feed

Even if your chickens are snuggled away safely in their coop, predators might still be interested in the feed that is left behind. Taking your chickens feeder away at nighttime and replacing it in the morning may help reduce pesky predators.

Limit Free Ranging

One tactic we’ve used is to limit free ranging to only when we were at home or outside to keep close watch on things. This can get a little complex, especially if you’re regularly on the go. But we found it to be a happy middle ground for a time when predator pressure was high to still give our chickens the chance to roam free and forage.

Try a Chicken Tractor

As mentioned earlier, our mobile A-frame chicken tractor was the right solution for us to keep our chickens safely contained in the coop and run while still giving them regular access to fresh grass. Check out that post for how we were able to build a custom A-frame chicken tractor from a used kids swing set for hardly any cost!

When Predators Strike…

DON’T GIVE UP!

Losing a chicken is heartbreaking. And sets you back. We know.

So, let it be a learning opportunity for next time. Any time a predator breaches your coop they’re revealing areas that can be shored up and reinforced for next time.

What tips and tricks have you found helpful for protecting your feathery friends? Drop us a comment and let us know if you have questions!

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February 11, 2023 8 comments

Chickens Homestead How-to's Small Scale Farming

Custom A-Frame Chicken Tractor For (Almost) Free

by From Scratch Farmstead February 4, 2023

When we wanted to expand our backyard chicken flock beyond our small stationary coop without spending a fortune, it was time to get creative. So, we picked up a used, wooden kids playset for free and transformed it into a mobile A-frame chicken tractor.

This post talks about the benefits of mobile chicken coops and how to build your own custom A-frame chicken tractor for around $150.

What is a Chicken Tractor?

A chicken tractor is simply a mobile chicken coop that is regularly moved to patches of fresh grass. They come in all shapes and sizes (A-frame, rounded, rectangular) and can be constructed using a variety of materials and methods.

The typical chicken tractor design sits on rails (or skids) at the base with an attached rope, bar, or handles used to pull and maneuver the tractor. Sometimes they have the addition of wheels on one or both ends to make this task easier.

Mobile chicken coops have long been used. Here, Laura Ingalls Wilder recounts the moveable coop that Pa had built from Little Town On the Prairie:

“She carried the chicks in her apron, to set them one by one into the coop that Pa had already made. It had a front of laths, to let in air and sun, and a little door with a wooden button to fasten it. It had no floor, but was set on clean grass that the chicks could eat, and when the grass grew trampled and dirty, the coop could be moved to fresh grass.”

Beyond moving chickens regularly onto fresh grass, chicken tractors offer many benefits. Let’s look at those.

Benefits of a Mobile vs. Stationary Chicken Coop

Our homesteading journey began with 6 laying hens in our suburban backyard. We kept them in a stationary coop that was a kit from Costco. It was bare bones. But it worked and allowed us to easily get started as backyard chicken keepers.

A couple years in, we started to see some of the challenges and limitations of that stationary coop:

It was tight (for us and chickens!)
Needed frequent cleaning.
Increased predator pressure while free ranging.
Trouble keeping free ranging chickens contained to only our yard.
And then the difficulty of trying to wrangle the chickens back into the coop during the day when we needed to run out somewhere.

Our video on stationary vs. mobile coops gives a more thorough breakdown of the pros and cons of each and what we ran up against.

But, because of some of those cons of the stationary coop, we decided to venture into the world of mobile coops, or chicken tractors.

Here’s a quick list of the benefits a chicken tractor can offer:

Fresh grass! Chicken tractors are typically moved onto fresh grass each day giving your gals new forage opportunities.

Large run. Tractors come in all shapes and sizes, but often have a larger footprint offering space for chickens to move about.

Easy access. A-frame chicken tractors are tall making maneuvering inside them for daily chores like food and water more manageable.

a frame chicken tractor with backyard chickens

Safe & secure. Your chickens have many of the benefits of free ranging with less risk of predators getting to them.

Urban friendly. Whether you’re often on the go or have close proximity neighbors, your chickens stay in one place and keep your mind at ease.

Less mowing. My personal favorite—when appropriately moved and managed your chickens will mow down your lawn for you while also fertilizing it!

A-Frame Chicken Tractor FAQ’s

Before we get into how to build your own custom A-frame chicken tractor, you’ll want to make sure it’s the right fit for you, your lot, and your flock. Here are some frequently asked questions:

How much land do I need for a mobile chicken coop?

There are several factors that will play into this including the size of your tractor, how many chickens you have, and your yard space. We had our tractor on our 1/3 acre lot, which felt plenty spacious. The minimum time for grass to regrow is 30 days. And it is typically best to move your tractor onto a fresh patch of grass every day. Based on this, my recommendation would be to size your tractor to allow at least 30 moves through your yard before being brought back to its starting point.

suburban backyard chickens with moveable coop

How many chickens can I fit in my chicken tractor?

Chickens need anywhere between 4-8 square feet of run space per bird to be happy, healthy layers that aren’t cramped. So, step one is deciding the appropriate size of your backyard flock and then building a chicken tractor to suit. We recommend getting a lesser quantity of chickens to start and increasing as able over time as opposed to maxing out your space right away.

Can I let my chickens free range with a chicken tractor?

Yes, you certainly can! Just because the coop is designed to move while still keeping your chickens contained doesn’t mean the door needs to stay shut. If you’re comfortable with them free ranging and have a good setup to do so, then have at it! We would still let ours free range as much as possible if we were at home and keeping watch on them. But, for many of the reasons already mentioned, keeping the chickens in the tractor most of the time was the perfect option to keep our chickens safe and happy in our suburban backyard.

What about predators?

We never lost a chicken to a predator in our chicken tractor or our stationary coop. With the stationary coop, we were able to dig down and run hardware cloth underneath it to keep predators from digging under the coop. However, the bottom is obviously exposed in a mobile coop. But, most predator pressure comes at night when the chickens have retreated to the enclosed area of the tractor. This means, if you design the enclosed area to keep predators out and make sure they are securely locked up each night, then your flock will likely stay well protected.

How To Build an A-Frame Chicken Tractor From a Kids Playset

Many stationary coops come as a kit or prebuilt. Mobile chicken tractors, however, are much less common to come by and few plans for them exist. Therefore, you will likely end up building your own custom tractor—like we did!

This post is not an exact A-frame chicken tractor plan to follow. Rather, it can give you the inspiration and general guidance to build your own custom A-frame chicken tractor. And do so at a very low cost.

Here’s what you’ll need to start.

Materials

Kids Playset – This project gives you the added bonus of up-cycling lumber from a used children’s playset to give it a second life. If you search for playsets on Craigslist or FB Marketplace there are usually TONS of options. And many are free! Look for something simple with an A-frame design for swings and other playset accessories. This will give you enough lumber for the majority of your chicken tractor.

Roofing – If the playset doesn’t already have roofing, you’ll need to come up with a material option for roofing. We found used cedar fencing that someone had listed for free, removed the pickets, and lapped them as roofing. You can also use metal or PVC panels, asphalt shingles, or any other waterproof material that will stand up to outdoor use.

fence panel pickets used for roofing on chicken coop

Siding – Some playsets may give you the siding you need for the enclosed coop section and nesting boxes. Ours did not. So, I picked up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4” exterior plywood that I used for the enclosed coop area and laying boxes.

After tracking down those main materials, you’ll need a few other things.

Here’s a more complete materials list:

Lumber from playset
Roofing
Siding
Chicken wire
Wire cutters
Hinges & latches
Wheels (optional)
Rope
Various sizes of exterior grade construction screws

Tools

Most playsets will be made with 4×4 posts. These are beefy and will be too heavy to construct a mobile coop out of. Therefore, I took those 4×4’s and cut them lengthwise, or ripped them down to smaller sizes. A table saw makes this task so much quicker and easier. But, you can also do it with a circular saw if that is what you have. Likewise, a miter saw will makes some angled cuts easier. But they can also be achieved simply with a circular saw.

Here’s the tools to have on hand:

Circular Saw
Table Saw (optional)
Miter Saw (optional)
Drill
Impact driver (or drill if that’s what you have)
Stapler
Tape measurer
Speed square
Pencil
Quick clamps (if you have them)
Safety glasses

How To Build a Custom A-Frame Chicken Tractor

Step 1 – Build A-frame

As mentioned above, the 4×4 posts from your playset will need to ripped down to smaller dimensions. I ripped one in half to provide 2×4’s for the two bottom rails or skids the tractor will be pulled on. The rest of the 4×4’s I ripped into quarters (2×2’s) for the remainder of the tractor framing. The top spine of the A-frame was another 2×4 I had ripped down from the original 2×6 atop the playset.

Once the materials were cut to size, I laid out the dimension and footprint of the tractor size I wanted, cut the pieces to the appropriate sizes and angles, and screwed the frame of the tractor together. My tractor was roughly 7’x7’.

To tie a tow rope or add wheels (optional) on the tractor, it’s best to have the bottom rails of the tractor extend 4-8” out from the tractor. You can see I didn’t do this initially and just screwed on some shorter pieces of wood on the front and back. They held up fine.

The front of the tractor will need a door. I built a simple door and door frame out of extra 2×2’s that fit on the front A-section of the tractor.

I also added diagonal 2×2’s spanning the A-frame sections laterally so the tractor had more stability when being pulled.

Step 2 – Construct Enclosed Coop Area

The goal here is to create a triangle shaped, fully enclosed area where your chickens can roost, sleep, be protected from cold and rain, and go to lay eggs.

Here I was able to repurpose the bridge, or deck, from the playset I found. I spaced the upright A-frame sections from the previous step so the deck would fit between them. This will give your enclosed area a solid base.

adding laying box to a frame chicken tractor

Next, cut your siding to fit on the horizontal sections of your enclosed area and install with screws

building enclosed area on chicken tractor

adding siding to a frame chicken tractor

On the side facing the interior run, you will need to cut out a door that can be closed up tight at night. The easiest way I have found to do this is to make my own vertical rails out of 2×4’s for a door to slide up and down in. Simply notch out one of the corners lengthwise of a 2×4 section, mount them next to your door cutout, and slide a rectangular section of siding into those tracks as a door.

sliding door to keep chickens safe in tractor

The backside of your tractor will fit a nesting box (or laying box). I used spare 2×2’s to build a nesting box frame and then used more of the siding board for the floor and walls of the nesting box. I then built a cover on hinges that can be easily lifted up to check for eggs or access the enclosed portion for cleaning.

And don’t forget ventilation! This is critical to provide airflow on warmer days. A the top of the triangle enclosed areas, I cut off the top of the triangle, put it on hinges, then lined the opening with hardware cloth so I could open and close it for ventilation as needed.

Note, the top of your enclosed area will still be open until roofing is added!

Step 3 – Install Chicken Wire (or Hardware Cloth)

Next, the run of your tractor will be ready for chicken wire! There is no easy way to install chicken wire. I recommend you wear long sleeves, pants, gloves, and eye protection to avoid getting cut up. Also, having a second set of hands makes it much easier.

I bought 4’ wide chicken wire and spaced the A-frame sections appropriately to accommodate. Cut the length you need with wire cutters (leaving a little extra never hurts and can always be cut off at the end). Fasten one side in place with your stapler. Stretch the chicken wire across to the other side and staple in place.

You want the staples to be continuous and spaced every 4-6” so the run is secure and nothing can get in or out. The door will also need to be backed with chicken wire. Working with chicken wire can be frustrating and require patience. But stick with it and you’ll get there!

Hardware cloth is chicken wires much stronger and more secure cousin. It’s also more expensive. My theory was that ground predators that could to tear through chicken wire are usually only out in the evening. Therefore, I built the enclosed area to be impenetrable from predators and made sure all our chickens were closed up there securely each night. This allowed me to use chicken wire on the run and save some cost. After a couple years of use, that theory proved true and nothing ever got to the chickens in the run or the enclosed area.

Step 4 – Add Roof

At this point, the only area still open on your A-frame chicken tractor is the top of your enclosed area where roofing needs to be added.

I discussed roofing materials above. The simplest and most commonly found solution is probably to use metal roofing sheets and fasten them with roofing screws. Often you can find these tin panels used for cheap or free. I found some cedar fencing that someone had removed and lapped the pickets like shingles.

The bottom line is that whatever you use for roofing, it needs to be fully enclosed and secure so nothing can pry into the enclosed area of your coop at night.

Step 5 – Install Wheels (optional)

I never installed wheels on our A-frame chicken tractor and got by alright. However, they would not be that hard to install and would likely make it significantly easier to move the tractor.

We’ve since built a couple of John Suscovich chicken tractors for raising meat chickens that have wheels and they do pull very nicely. His design involved using lawnmower wheels, 1/2” carriage bolts, locking nuts, and washers to get the spacing of the wheel right.

chicken tractor and three sisters garden

This is where extending the bottom rails comes into play. Drill a 1/2” hole in the rails on the back of the tractor, install your carriage bolts, washers, lock nuts, and wheels, and you’re all set.

Step 6 – Add Finishing Touches

There’s a few extra steps needed to finish off your tractor.

First, drill 1/2” holes where the bottom rails overhang on the front side of your tractor. Tie a section of heavy duty rope through each end. Adjust the rope as needed to get the right fit for pulling your tractor. The thicker rope you buy, the less it will bite into your hands. Note, you might also consider adding a pull rope on the backside of the tractor. I did this, and it helps with maneuvering, especially if space is tight.

a frame chicken tractor made from playset

Second, build a ladder to the entrance of your enclosed area. I used a 2×4 and added small steps for traction. I also put this ladder on a hinge so I could lift it off the ground, tie it up, and keep it out of the way when moving the tractor.

You’ll also want to set them up for food and water. I bought a hanging feeder and waterer, added hooks below the enclosed area, and hung both in the tractor. Having them hanging also makes moving your tractor much simpler.

And finally, add any hinges or latches needed. This includes the doors, nesting box, vent holes, ladder, or anywhere else. Make sure any and all points of entry fasten securely and close up tight!

At this point, you’ve probably got yourself the coolest custom chicken tractor on the block 🙂

Moving and Managing Your A-Frame Chicken Tractor

Managing your chicken tractor will vary a lot based on:

The size of your tractor.
How many chickens you have.
How much land you have.
The health of your soil and grass.

Moving your tractor

Most chicken tractors are moved once a day. But you can do this more, or less, depending on your needs. For instance, if you only have a couple chickens, they might be able to stay in one spot for multiple days. If you have lots of chickens, they’ll really appreciate being moved more frequently and will tear up your lawn less. With our Suscovich chicken tractors that we raise 25 birds at a time in, that many chickens will tear through a patch of grass in no time, so I move them twice a day.

chickens mowing down lawn in moveable coop

Chicken tractors in the winter

The question also comes up of what to do with your chickens in the wintertime. Grass stops growing, so is it really necessary to keep moving your tractor?

Our solution has been to park our chicken tractor over our garden area for the winter. We’ll typically utilize the “deep litter method” where we’ll continue to add layers of dry straw as manure builds up. The straw and manure will compost down and give your soil tons of natural fertilizer to plant into for next growing season. Plus, come spring as the ground begins to thaw, your chickens will scratch, dig, and help prep your garden areas for planting!

chicken tractor in suburban backyard during winter

We would move the tractor during the winter to a new spot every couple of weeks to avoid too much buildup in any one area. But it was much less moving than during the growing season.

Dust bathing

Something else that comes up is that chicken tractors generally limit a chickens innate desire to dust bathe, which they use to clean themselves. If not given access to loose soil or sand to dig into and dust bathe in, chickens will get stressed out over time. Or, they’ll start digging holes in your lawn!

To resolve this, we found a bin and filled it with some dirt and sand. The chickens in the tractor took to it instantly and were happy campers afterward! The only tricky part of the bin system was moving it around with the tractor.

Roosting

Another quick fix for the tractor was figuring out how to best give the chickens roosting space in the enclosed area. I didn’t want anything permanently fixed in there because it would make cleaning out the coop tricky. So I made some really simple portable roosting bars out of 2×4’s and those worked great!

Another A-Frame Option – The Suscovich Chicken Tractor

I’ve referenced the John Suscovich chicken tractor multiple times. It is another great A-frame chicken tractor option. His book, Stress Free Chicken Tractor Plans, gives you the full step-by-step instructions of how to build one. And we also made a supplemental post about how to add a metal roof on top of it.

Keep in mind this is a big chicken tractor. The footprint is 6’x10’. And it’s designed for raising pastured meat chickens, so some of the elements necessary for laying hens are missing. But, others have gotten creative with the design and figured out to retrofit it for laying hens.

The A-Frame Advantage

Both mobile and stationary chicken coops have their pros and cons. You need to weigh out which chicken coop style is right for you. But hopefully this post has given you an idea of the advantages of a mobile A-frame chicken coop and how they can benefit your chickens, yard, and ultimately you through healthy pastured eggs.

And, we hope you also have the inspiration and guidance you need to build your own chicken tractor—on a shoestring budget at that!

We’d love to hear how your own chicken tractor adventures go and any questions you have in the comments!

Some of the above links are affiliate links. This means we earn a small commission on qualifying purchases at no cost to you. We are so appreciative of your support!

Looking for more on backyard chickens? Check out these posts:

How To Care For Baby Chicks
Simple Outdoor Chicken Brooder Ideas
How To Care For Chickens In The Winter Basics
Chicken Roost Designs | Two Simple DIY Ladder Perch Ideas
Farm Fresh Eggs | What’s the Difference and How to Use Them Safely

February 4, 2023 2 comments

Chickens Homestead How-to's

Chicken Roost Designs | Two Simple DIY Ladder Perch Ideas

by From Scratch Farmstead November 22, 2022

Chickens don’t need much. But a place to roost or perch is a necessity! The goal of this post is to give you an overview of why chicken roosting bars are important and show you two simple chicken roost designs that you can build quickly and easily with leftover materials.

Why our chickens weren’t very happy with us

This past spring we doubled up our chickens on our farmstead!

Our chicken coop inside our barn suddenly went from housing 25 chickens to around 50. There was plenty of room in there to accommodate the population growth – especially since they free-range during the day – but the roost I had built clearly wasn’t cutting it.

Their tree branch ladder roost was pretty good sized. Surely they’ll find a way to nestle in close together and make room for everyone… Uh uhh.

The pecking order was all out of whack. Chickens were disgruntled. I was nightly chasing down chickens roosting all over the barn. And when I did put them in the coop the huddled cluster of chickens in the corner on the ground told me they needed a new piece of furniture – and fast.

I’ll talk about the two types of chickens roost designs I built for our chicken coop below. They are super simple!

But first, let’s talk through the basics of chicken roost designs and why they’re a necessity!

What is a Chicken Roost or Perch?

Animals are happiest when their domesticated environment matches their wild environment.

Birds in nature roost, or perch, high up in trees on branches. You’ll find them primarily roosting through the night, but they also do so during the day.

Chickens are no different. This innate behavior is how birds keep themselves comfortable and safe from predators, especially while sleeping.

natural branch ladder chicken coop designs

Roosting is also important for the social dynamics within a flock. Since the higher bars of a roost are safer these spots are prized. Chickens higher up in the pecking order will claim those higher spots, leaving the more susceptible lower spots open for chickens that are lower in the pecking order.

Or, you might really be viewed as an outcast if you have no spot at all – as was the case in our coop! Let’s solve that.

Why Chickens Need a Roost

Chickens instinctually roost side-by-side in rows. Huddled close, this helps them keep warm and they also work together on a roosting bar to help keep balance.

Another, almost miraculous, ability chickens have is to shut down one side of their brain while keeping the other side fully alert. This is how chickens keep watch for predators while sleeping. The chickens on the outside of each roosting bar will sleep with one eye open, keeping that side of their brain alert to watch for predators. The other eye is shut and that side of their brain turned off to get much needed rest. They’ll likely even turn around during the night to give each side of their brain a rest!

It’s clear that chickens feel the most safe and secure when properly roosting. But here are some other ways a roost will benefit your flock:

Foot protection. A properly designed roost will keep a chickens foot in tiptop shape. On freezing nights, their feet tuck warmly under their body reducing risk of frostbite. Also, chickens are deep sleepers. When on the ground, small rodents like rats can nibble at chickens feet, legs, or backs while they sleep unawares. Roosting higher above ground removes that threat.

Keep them healthy. Let’s face it, the ground of a chicken coop gets dirty. Sleeping in those unsanitary conditions can lead to disease over time. What’s more is that ticks, mites, and lice can hide out in the bedding of your coop and come out to feast on your chickens at night.

Prevent anxiety. Without a proper roost or enough roost space your flock will be in turmoil. One, they’ll never feel safe leading to a perpetual lack of sleep. Two, they won’t be able to live out their social order as they desire to. This will stress your chickens out and worsen unwanted behaviors like feather pecking.

There’s no doubt chickens need a suitable roost to accommodate the whole flock. So, let’s start looking at chicken roost design considerations.

Dimensions of Chicken Roost Designs

There are two critical dimensions to any roost design.

The roosting bar height above ground.
The distance between roosting bars.

Most roosts are ladder style where the roosting bars, or rungs of the ladder, get gradually higher. Start with determining the height of the lowest rung. Then, layout the remaining roosting bars from there.

The lowest roosting bar should be at least 12” off the ground, but 18-24” is recommended.

The horizontal spacing between each roosting bar should be 12-18” apart. Any closer, and your birds will be within range of pooping on each other throughout the night!

In terms of the top of the roost, there should be at least 12” between the highest perch bar and the ceiling of the coop for chickens to comfortably access and use the top rung. The top roost bar should also sit a minimum of 12” off the wall to give your wall some poop clearance!

A final consideration is the angle at which your roost or ladder sits. A 45° angle is ideal. You can go steeper, but it will be tricky to achieve the horizontal spacing needed between roosting bars.

Flat vs. Rounded Chicken Roosting Bars

There is conflicting information out there about the proper size and shape of roosting bars.

Many chicken roost designs call for 2×4 roosting bars that are oriented horizontally (flat side up). The claim is that chickens actually prefer a flat perch versus rounded and can better protect their feet during the wintertime on a flatter, wider roost.

The case against horizontal 2×4’s is that chickens can’t properly wrap their toes around them for proper balance. Studies have shown that chickens prefer a roosting bar to be around 2” to 2-1/2” wide for optimal grip and comfort.

My philosophy tends to be that farming should follow nature. And I have a hard time visualizing what a chicken would find to perch on in nature that is flat and high enough to keep them safe from predators. My chickens naturally perch on branches in bushes during the day.

That said, I built one of each as an experiment – a round tree branch roost and a horizontal 2×4 roost. I plan to update this post over time with what my chickens tell me about each design.

Materials for Chicken Roost Designs

When it comes to a chicken roost, stick with wood.

Metal gets too cold which can increase chances of frostbite and other foot ailments. And plastic is often slick making it difficult for chickens to maneuver. Wood is the ideal fit.

Regardless of using dimensional lumber or natural branches, make sure your wood is smooth and splinter free to reduce chances of infections like Bumblefoot. Ease any sharp edges with a router, planer, or sandpaper. And select smooth tree branches without sharp corners or protruding knots.

diy 2x4 ladder roost materials — DIY 2×4 ladder roost materials

Building your own chicken roost is the perfect project to use scrap or repurposed materials for. Spare 2×4’s. An old piece of furniture. Pallets that someone left out by the curb. Downed branches around your yard or from a neighbor. As long as there’s sturdy and smooth pieces of wood, about anything will do!

As a side-note, I’d steer clear of pressure treated wood. Except maybe for the ladders side rails or legs that come in contact with the ground. Treated lumber contains harsh chemicals that you don’t want coming in contact with your chickens feet for extended periods.

Two Easy DIY Chicken Roost Designs

Building your own roost is the perfect beginner friendly farm project! Each of these roosts took about a half hour to build and use very basic tools. Here’s a list of what you need:

Circular saw
Impact driver or drill
2-1/2” or 3” screws*
Tape measurer
Speed square
Pencil
Safety glasses

Note that each of these roosts as shown were designed for our coop. But, it is easy to modify the size or design to fit your situation. For example, both of my ladder roosts lean against the wall of the coop. If you need a freestanding roost, simply add legs to each corner of the roost or build an A-frame roost.

As a rule of thumb, one average sized chicken will require about 12” of roosting bar space. So plan out your roosting ladder based on the size of your flock and build to suit.

*My preference are coated screws with a star bit. They are so much easier to use than a standard Philips head screws and since they’re coated they last longer in high moisture applications like chicken coops!

Roost Design #1 – 2×4 Ladder Roost

If you have 5 roughly 8’ spare 2×4’s lying around then you’re in business. That’s all this simple 2×4 ladder roost requires. The video below visually walks you through the build process.

Step one

Measure and cut (5) 2×4’s to 5’ long.

Step two

Take your cutoff pieces and cut (2) 18” pieces and (2) 12” pieces.

The 18” pieces are the legs of your roost allowing the bottom roosting bar to sit 18” off the ground. The 12” pieces are your standoffs at the top of the roost that lean against the wall of your coop providing 12” of clearance.

Step three

Select (2) 5’ boards as your vertical rails of the ladder. On the first rail, use your speed square to trace three 45° lines – top, middle, bottom – all facing the same direction. Repeat these three 45° lines on the second rail, but mirrored so they angle the opposite direction.

marking angle for chicken roost with speed square

Step four

Align your 18” legs and 12” standoffs with the lines you just traced at the top and bottom of each rail. Fasten together with 2 screws. Note that the legs and standoffs should bend the same direction but at opposite angles.

assembled rails for ladder style chicken roost

Step five

Fasten the (3) 5’ rungs between the rails in line with your 45° marks. The bottom rung will sit flat on the legs and the top rung will press up against the standoffs. Fasten the end of each roosting bar with at least two screws so the bar does not twist or rock when weight is applied.

standoff pieces for 2x4 ladder chicken roost — top rung of diy 2×4 chicken roost

bottom rung of diy 2x4 chicken roost — top rung of diy 2×4 chicken roost

Roost Design #2 – Tree Branch Ladder Roost

This tree branch roost is as simple as it gets! Track down some downed tree branches that are sturdy and smooth. The two vertical rails should be longer and thicker – approximately 4-5” in diameter and as long as desired to fit your coop. Look for horizontal roosting bars with a 2-3” diameter at your desired width.

Step one

Lay down your vertical rails in the desired shape. Layout the horizontal roosting bars in the desired locations. Keep in mind the angle your ladder will be set at and the horizontal spacing you want to achieve between each roosting bar.

At this point, either mark and cut the horizontal rungs to the desired length, or leave as-is. Some overhang isn’t a big deal and can actually provide extra roosting space.

Step two

Screw horizontal roosting bars to the vertical rails. Ideally you’d fit two screws in at the end of each rung, but one secure screw should hold.

And your roost is complete!

Where should you locate your roost in the coop?

Whether you build with 2×4’s, branches, or any other scrap wood you have, you’re ready bring your new ladder style chicken roost into your coop.

But where?

Did you know chickens continue pooping while they sleep? Talk about multitasking!

This means that quite a bit of manure tends to accumulate under a roost.

Therefore, you want to keep your roost well clear of where your chickens have access to food and water. It’s also recommended you keep your roost away from laying boxes.

So find a nice unoccupied area of your coop away from the other coop functions and setup your roost!

If possible, it’s best to secure your ladder to the wall so it doesn’t fall. But, keep it easily moveable so you can clean underneath it!

Looking for other chicken raising info? Check out:

Simple DIY Chicken Coop Inside Your Barn
How To Care For Chickens In The Winter Basics
Simple Outdoor Chicken Brooder Ideas
How To Care For Baby Chicks
Easy DIY Heated Chicken Waterer
Chicken Tractor Plans for 25 Chickens

November 22, 2022 2 comments

Chickens Homestead How-to's

Chicken Prolapsed Vent | Simple Remedies For Natural Recovery

by From Scratch Farmstead October 27, 2022

Chicken prolapsed vent can pop up out of nowhere and is usually traumatic – both for the chicken and keeper. We learned a lot while treating our chicken with a prolapsed vent and will share what we tried to heal her naturally and how it went.

Our Chicken Prolapsed Vent Story

We got home late on a Sunday night after a long, full weekend. Upon going out for evening chores and closing up the chicken coop for the night, I noticed something was not right.

One of our Buff Orpington pullets we raised from a chick that spring was on the bottom rung of the roost, her backend looking wide, and then I saw it.

The bulge.

egg bound and prolapsed buff orpington pullet

It was not a pretty sight. There was blood. Something was protruding out her back end. And was that an egg even?

I brought her into our mudroom, called Joelle for help, and with some quick research we were able to determine she had a prolapsed vent. A bad one at that.

What is a Prolapsed Vent?

A chicken prolapsed vent can also be know as cloacal prolapse, prolapsed oviduct, pickout, or blowout. Prolapse occurs when the hen’s reproductive tract inverts and protrudes outside the body without retracting on its own and returning to normal. If caught early, a chicken with a prolapsed vent can recover.

In our case, our hen was simultaneously egg bound, meaning an egg is either stuck inside of her or still attached to her oviduct. When this is the case it’s important to help her release the egg before attempting to treat the inverted vent. Our chickens egg was external at this point and attached to the prolapsed oviduct by the thin membrane.

With the application of some coconut oil as a lubricant we were able to free the egg. Quickly after, we got a surprise that a second egg with an unformed shell slid out once the first egg was released.

We knew this probably wasn’t a good sign – the egg binding had occurred for more than a day. And our fast and furious research was telling us when it came to a prolapsed vent, the sooner the better with treatment.

Chicken Prolapsed Vent Causes

Premature egg laying from young chickens
Dehydration
Calcium deficiency (leading to low muscle tone)
Abnormally large eggs
Older chickens with too much fat buildup around reproductive organs
Constipation

Since these were probably our young chickens first eggs, it’s most likely that she began laying too soon when her reproductive system was not fully developed. While calcium deficiency can be an issue for chickens already established in their egg laying, introducing calcium too soon for young hens can play a role in chickens beginning to produce and lay eggs too early.

Our chickens had free-choice oyster shells for calcium available to them on occasion. This was to make sure our older layers had access to the calcium they needed to stay healthy. After this experience, however, we plan to remove the supplemental calcium all together as our pullets near the age of laying and then reintroduce it once they are established layers.

Steps To Take For Recovery

After researching options we wanted to do everything we could to help our chicken recover and rejoin the laying flock. Here are steps you can take.

1. Separate your chicken

Right away! You need to separate your chicken immediately from the rest of the flock. Other chickens will be drawn to peck at the prolapsed vent and can quickly turn aggressive. The sooner you catch the prolapse the better to prevent wounds from other chickens that could make the situation much more severe.

2. Soak and clean the vent

Either running your chickens backside under warm water or placing them in a warm water bath will help clean the vent and relax muscles to give the prolapse the best chance of returning to normal on its own. This may also help a chicken that is egg bound pass an egg. For a water bath fill a tub or utility sink with a few inches of water the same temperature you would take a bath in so the chicken is submerged up to their chest. Keep them in the bath for 30-60 minutes. A towel over the tub to block light can help your chicken relax.

3. Lubricate the vent

Applying a lubricant to your chickens prolapse can aid in both helping the prolapse stay moist and not dry out. This can help the oviduct to properly retract and also help pass future eggs. We used coconut oil since that’s what we had on hand. Petroleum jelly is also commonly used.

4. Dry your chicken

Use a towel or hair dryer to dry her feathers off. We let her roost on the utility sink while using a hair dryer. This is especially necessary before bringing her back outdoors in colder climates.

5. Treat the prolapse

If your chicken is unable to retract the prolapse on her own, you may need to get involved and help return the prolapsed oviduct inside her. Don’t worry! It’s not as scary as it sounds. Apply gentle pressure to the prolapse and slowly and patiently work it back into its proper internal position. You may feel a fair amount of resistance at first and she may continue to push the prolapse back out. We found that trying to keep her calm and holding the prolapse in place for 10-20 minutes seemed to help keep things properly situated.

6. Find a temporary home

You will need to continue to separate your chicken from the flock until the risk of prolapse has passed. We moved our chicken to our brooder which was right next to our coop. A small pet cage will also work or fencing off a section of your coop to keep the prolapsed chicken separated. You’ll want to make sure there is no way of the other chickens getting to your sick gal.

7. Get her hydrated

Keeping her hydrated is crucial to helping her prolapse return to normal. We gave her fresh water with some salt and apple cider vinegar so that she had minerals and electrolytes to keep hydrated. She was downing water like crazy when we first gave it to her.

8. Try to prevent egg production

Chicken are most likely to prolapse again when laying an egg. If you can delay egg laying for a period of time you will give them the best odds of recovery. You will want your chicken to eat to keep her energy up. But cut back on her access to standard feed which promotes egg production. We gave her some fresh kale and chunks of apple. Keeping her in a dark location can also help discourage egg production.

9. Monitor your chicken often

The prolapse may reoccur. The sooner you can catch it and help the prolapse revert the better. A prolapsed vent can dry out quickly so you will want the oviduct spending more time in than out. Check on her often and give her the care and attention she needs to recover.

Chicken Prolapsed Vent FAQ’s

Can my chicken live with a prolapsed vent?

If the prolapse is not able to recover and continues to blowout then sadly, no. The prolapse will dry out over time making it difficult to pass eggs or waste leading to infection. Her quality of life will continue to decline.

Is it necessary to call a Vet?

This depends on your attachment to your chickens. We have about 50 chickens on our homestead, and while losing one is sad, we would not choose to have a vet bill to save one chicken. However, when we had only a few backyard chickens while living in the suburbs, I can understand why someone would want veterinary help. Even so, there may not be much a vet can do unless the prolapse is caught early. Antibiotics can help reduce the risk of infection, but they won’t solve the protruding duct if the problem persists. From what we’ve read, many vets will recommend euthanizing the chicken.

chicken prolapsed vent that has been replaced

Will Epsom salts or Magnesium Flakes help?

We received a tip that an epsom salt bath might aid in returning the oviduct to normal. We didn’t have epsom salt, but we did have magnesium flakes, which have a similar effect of relaxing muscles and relieving pain. What we did was add a 1/4 cup of magnesium flakes to her warm water bath and let her soak for over 30 minutes. This seemed to soothe and relax her. It can also help a chicken to release a bound egg. This Spa Treatment for Sick Chickens post is worth a read to see what others ways this can help heal sick chickens.

What if my chicken doesn’t recover?

There are many stories out there of chickens recovering from a prolapsed vent and going on to be happy, healthy layers. After going through the steps above to try and help our chicken recover, it was clear her prolapse was severe and was going to be a recurring ailment. This was sad and we tried to give her every chance we could to recover. She was still otherwise healthy, so instead of allowing her to continue to degrade and suffer, we ended her life and turned her into a stew bird. Euthanizing the chicken is recommended if the chicken might have other health issues or you don’t want to go the route we went.

Can chicken prolapsed vent be prevented?

Since prolapse most commonly occurs with young chickens who start laying too young, the best prevention you can do is to help them develop at an appropriate rate. Measures like limiting or removing access to supplemental calcium or not providing additional light when young can help. And keeping a watchful eye on your flock can be the best prevention. The sooner signs of prolapse are noticed the easier it will be to prevent or treat it. But also know that sometimes things just happen regardless of our best efforts.

Hope For Chicken Keepers… and Chickens!

We wish our chickens story ended on a happier note. But through the process we learned so much and feel much more prepared should this ever pop up again.

And we hope our story and lessons learned have been helpful in your situation.

So please, share your story or what you’ve found helpful in helping your sick gals recover! The more information we can share the better we’ll be able to help 🙂

October 27, 2022 2 comments

snow covered chicken tractor in suburban backyard

Chickens Homestead How-to's

How To Care For Chickens In The Winter Basics

by From Scratch Farmstead October 2, 2022

You have backyard chickens or are thinking about getting them but there’s one BIG question – How to care for chickens in the winter? Don’t fret! It’s much more simple than you may think. We’ll share our top tips for keeping your chickens safe and healthy during those frosty, snowy months.

From Our Suburban Backyard to Our Homestead

We’ve kept chickens for over 7 years now. It began with 6 backyard chickens on our 1/3 acre suburban lot. And now some 50 feathery friends free range about our 5 acre homestead property.

We’ve also had a variety of coop setups.

Our first coop was kit coop form Costco that we received as a gift. When we wanted to expand our suburban flock, we converted a wooden kids playset into an A-frame portable chicken coop.

backyard chicken tractor from repurposed materials

Instead of having a standalone coop currently at our homestead, we decided to build a coop inside our pole barn, which has worked out great!

In all these scenarios and in our northern Illinois winters (which can be harsh!) we’ve never lost a chicken due to winter conditions. That’s not because we never made mistakes or always knew exactly what we were doing. We’ve learned a lot as we went!

But we went for it, troubleshooted as needed, made adjustments, and tried to be more prepared the following year.

You can raise chickens in the wintertime too! Here’s what you need to know.

How To Care For Chickens In The Winter – Top 5 Tips!

Chickens really are hardy birds that are built for the winter. Their full feathery coats and higher than average body temps make them well suited to brave the cold. But there are some basic steps on your part as a chicken keeper to help them thrive.

1. Minimize Drafts In The Coop & Run

Exposure to frigid winds is one of the greatest threats to your chickens in the winter. We’ve all experienced the “feels like” temperatures that drop well below the actual temp due to windchill. Creating a windbreak or even insulating your chicken’s coop and run is a must.

Many coops are already sealed up pretty well. Be sure to close up any vents on the coop without cutting off ventilation completely. It’s important to not have your coop completely sealed off to avoid excess moisture build up, which can lead to frostbite.

Chicken runs, however, are usually open and exposed to wind. There are a couple options. One that we used is to staple thick plastic sheeting around the walls of your run. This is a quick and easy way to seal off your coop. We always used a 4-mil or 6-mil clear plastic sheeting that you can find at a hardware store.

chicken run covered in plastic during the winter — plastic sheeting around the chicken run to keep drafts out

Another alternative to plastic sheeting would either be screwing on plywood or metal panels. Whichever windbreak materials you choose, be sure to apply it to at least 2, if not 3, sides of your run to give your chickens good relief from the wind.

Another option is to stack straw bales around your chicken coop or run. Straw bales can act both as insulation and make an excellent windbreak.

2. Keep It Dry

When temps dip below freezing, a dry hen is much less susceptible to frostbite, disease, and any other wintertime woes that can pop up. Two options exist.

First, you can clean your coop regularly. This is best suited for smaller coops that can’t handle a lot of buildup of bedding and manure. With the kit coop we had that fit 6 chickens, I was able to add a few layers of fresh bedding like wood shavings, mulch, or straw to keep things fresh and dry. But at least once a month the moisture buildup got too intense for the small space and I needed to go in there and do a full clean out and start new.

Your other option is what’s called the Deep Bedding or Deep Litter method. This bedding method is where you continually add fresh layers of carbon on top of manure and leave the layers in place. Carbon can be straw, wood chips, wood shavings, or even leaves that will absorb moisture and give your birds a clean, dry bedding under their feet.

extra bedding in the chicken coop during winter

The key to this method is applying enough carbon. When applied at the right ratio, fresh bedding completely eliminate any odor from manure buildup. Another significant benefit is that the lower layers will eventually begin composting, which naturally produces heat in your coop.

The Deep Bedding or Deep Litter method is best suited for larger coops, runs, or chicken tractors that can handle a buildup of many bedding layers throughout the winter. We’ve had a lot of success applying this method to both our A-frame chicken tractor and barn coop over the years.

And as a bonus, come springtime you’ll have plenty of compost for your garden when you clean out your coop! Or better yet, put your coop on top of your garden and they’ll till, weed, and fertilize your garden so you’re all set for the spring.

3. Keep Water From Freezing

Chickens always need access to fresh, clean water. This can be a major challenge in the winter. The most common way to prevent water from freezing is to purchase or build a heated base for your chicken waterer.

You can purchase a heated chicken waterer base. This is a fine route to go, but just know that they typically only guarantee the heated bases to work if you pair it with the double-wall insulated metal waterer from the same manufacturer. If you are wanting to save money and go the DIY route, a couple options exist.

One common option is the cookie tin with a lightbulb. After trying this method, I don’t recommend it. A lightbulb trapped in a tight, high moisture area led to many frozen finger lightbulb changing adventures that winter.

Instead, I came up with an Easy DIY Heated Chicken Waterer base that has worked great. It’s a quick project, uses common parts you can find at any hardware store, and is an overall affordable option.

Easy DIY Heated Chicken Waterer

January 2, 2022

4. Have Extra Food On Hand

Chickens, like most mammals, utilize digestion to maintain and control body heat. Making sure they have enough food and the right type of food on hand during the winter is essential.

You are likely already feeding them a layer crumble or pellet. This is fine to continue giving them during the winter. One consideration if you typically only give them a ration of feed in the morning is to also start giving them an extra ration of feed in the evening during the winter months. This will help them keep warm during those long, cold nights.

Adding extra protein or carbohydrates can also help keep your chickens hardier and more robust in the cold. Consider supplementing with extra food along the way like meal worms or cracked corn to help boost your chicken’s energy.

The bottom line is to plan to have extra food around during the winter and don’t skimp on the rations!

5. Prepare In Advance and Observe

As we’ve discovered, the hardest part of keeping any animals is having to troubleshoot and react once problems arise. This is especially true in the dead of winter! Preparing ahead of time and taking time to observe your chickens and react to problems quickly can save a lot of headaches down the road.

Go out and secure that plastic around your chicken run when weather is nice in the fall so you’re not caught off guard when that early winter storm rolls through.

Have electrical run to your coop well in advance so you’re not struggling with frozen fingers to unroll a stiff extension cord to your coop when their water starts freezing.

Stock up on some extra bags of feed or bedding so you don’t run out during that 3-day blizzard!

And then spend time out with your chickens and pay attention to their cues. Are there signs of frostbite setting in? Do I need a better windbreak or is there too much moisture in the coop? Will they be happier if I give them more food than I have been?

Keep watch and act quickly when you notice that something seems off.

Winter Chicken Care – Frequently Asked Questions

Will chickens still lay eggs in the winter?

Yes! Chickens will continue to lay eggs all year. But the frequency that they lay is dependent on the amount of daylight. Chickens like at least 12 hours of daylight, and some breeds like closer to 14 or 16 hours. They will continue laying when daylight dips below these thresholds, but at a reduced rate.

Some chicken keepers leave a light on inside the coop to simulate extra daylight and keep egg production up. We’ve chosen not to do this to honor the chickens’ natural rhythms to slow down and rest during the winter months.

You’ll also want to collect eggs more frequently during the winter. The colder it is the quicker eggs can freeze and crack open. To avoid this check for eggs every few hours, especially when it’s well below freezing.

Should I be worried about frostbite for my chickens?

Frostbite is a concern and will most commonly target your chickens comb and wattle. These areas are vulnerable without feather cover. Keeping your coop dry and draft free is your best prevention against frostbite, which can be caused by excess moisture combined with frosty wind and freezing temps.

Another preventative measure chicken keepers have used is to spread Vaseline (or a natural alternative) on your chicken’s comb and wattle as an extra barrier against the cold.

You’ll want to be observant and try to avoid frostbite as it is rather uncomfortable for your chickens. But if minor frostbite does occur, it’s not the end of the world. Our rooster had some on his comb this past winter, and a month into spring you couldn’t even tell it was there.

Are heat lamps necessary in my chicken coop?

Nope. Chickens are built for winter. And if you take all the steps above to give them a dry, draft free coop with plenty of food and water they’ll be able to rely on their instincts to know what they need beyond that to handle the winter fine.

But it’s also not the end of the world to give them a source of heat. We did have a heat lamp in our coops while living in the suburbs. We mainly pointed it at the waterer to help keep it from freezing since we didn’t yet have our concrete block heated waterer base.

One thing you’ll want to consider is that heat lamps have a VERY high fire risk! So proceed at your own risk. Other safer options exist like this chicken coop heated pad.

Can my chickens free range in the snow?

You bet! They’ll have just as much fun getting out and scratching around in the snow and cold as they do on a nice spring day. Thick snow cover can limit of prevent their ability to free range.

Consider shoveling out an area or path for your chickens to give them room to roam. Chickens can get stressed and irritated with each other when cooped up. So giving your chickens the chance to roam, even throughout the winter, can help keep your flock happy and calm.

What are the most cold hardy chicken breeds?

Most heritage chicken breeds are well suited for winter conditions. We have had some 10-15 different breeds over the years, which have all done well over the winter. While this list is not exhaustive, some of the main cold hardy winter chicken breeds are:

Barred Rock
Rhode Island Red
Buff Orpington
Ameraucana
Easter Egger
Salmon Faverolle
Wyandotte
Delaware
Brahma
Australorp

These breeds tend to have thick coats of feathers and higher body masses. Some even have smaller combs and wattles or feathers on other vulnerable areas like their feet. Even less cold hardy breeds can do fine during the winter if you keep conditions favorable. We have a few White Leghorns that have weathered the winters just fine in our current barn coop setup.

You Can Raise Chickens in the Winter!

Just remember: block the wind, keep it dry, figure out a good wintertime water and food situation, and be proactive.

With just these few basic measures, your chickens will take it from there and handle the winter like they were made for it. Because they are!

So don’t let wintertime hold you back from getting that backyard flock you’ve always wanted. You and your gals got this!

October 2, 2022 0 comment

Chickens Homestead How-to's

Simple DIY Chicken Coop Inside Your Barn

by From Scratch Farmstead September 11, 2022

Already have an existing barn or pole barn on your property? Then you may just have the perfect spot to build your chicken coop! So don’t overthink it. We’ll break down what you need to know about building a chicken coop inside a barn along with the advantages and disadvantages.

Why We Built A Chicken Coop Inside Our Pole Barn

Our first spring on our homestead was ambitious. Starting entirely from scratch we built a brooder, filled it with both broiler and layer chicks, then needed to build both a chicken tractor for the meat chickens and a coop for the layers.

The John Suscovich chicken tractor worked out perfectly for our meat chickens.

But, when it came to a coop for our layers, there were almost too many options and I was getting overwhelmed. Meanwhile our chicks were getting big and we needed to build something!

I liked the portable egg-mobile concept. The only problems were, 1) we didn’t have a truck or tractor to move it, and 2) it would be a pretty significant project requiring both a trailer and lots of building materials.

Those cute, standalone coops would certainly be nice. But that too was a significant project and I wasn’t quite ready to commit to where would be best to build a permanent structure. And would the county require a permit or extra taxes?

Maybe a chicken tractor with laying boxes that we could pull around? But we had around 25 chickens with plans to expand in the future. We’d need a chicken tractor fleet!

Then I turned to our pole barn. Could I just build our coop inside it?

The barn is roughly 50’ x 25’. About 1/3 of it is used as a stall for animals. But there was ample space in the rest of the barn that I mainly used for storage.

So, we went for it and have been so happy with the decision!

Chicken Coop Inside Barn – What to Think Through Before Building

Before we get to the How To, it’s important to plan out your coop so your birds are safe and have everything they need, and you are happy long term with your coop.

Predator Proofing

Predator proofing your coop is always the first thing to think about with any coop design. All 6 sides should be secure: top, bottom, and the four sides. The top is the easiest. You can just use plywood, boards, or metal panels for a solid top.

The sides leave you with some options. On my coop, I built a 2’ or 4’ high partial wall covered with plywood and then used chicken wire to secure the walls the rest of the way up to the ceiling. Note that if you do plan to keep your walls open and bring the chicken wire all the way to the ground, you may want to consider hardware cloth in place of chicken wire – at least along the base. Some predators can tear through chicken wire when at ground level.

The base is the trickiest. Many predators can dig under the coop and get in. The ideal would be to dig out the entire footprint of the coop about a foot, line the underside with hardware cloth, then fill back in on top of it. But that’s a big undertaking! What I did was dug a trench where the walls of the coop would sit and lined the trench with concrete blocks. This both acted as a foundation for the coop and has kept predators out!

Location/Layout

Spend time in your barn thinking through and envisioning the best location for your coop and how it will effect the flow of traffic within your barn. How will the coop interact with other activities going on in the barn? What is the warmest spot of the barn? What will my chickens access to outside look like? Will they have sunlight and ventilation? Will I be able to bring materials in and out of the coop?

The inside layout of the coop with nesting boxes, roost, and room for food and water doesn’t need to be set in stone. But other features, like a door to your coop, will be permanent and require some forethought. What’s the best door location to make life simple with daily chores. And don’t forget to size your door wide enough to fit a wheel barrow in to clean out the coop!

Size

Knowing your desired laying flock size and how you will be raising them will determine a lot. Will your chickens free range? If not, do you also need to consider building a run for your chickens outside of the barn so they have access to outdoors and sunlight?

We knew we wanted to free range our chickens. So most of their time is spent outside foraging and dust bathing under bushes. Our 8’ x 16’ coop footprint feels like plenty of space for the 50 or so chickens we currently have considering they’re only in there to sleep, eat, drink, and lay.

But, if you don’t plan to give your chickens access to outdoors, that same space might feel tight for even 20 chickens. At a minimum, plan for 3-4 square feet per chicken in your coop. I realize we exceed that a bit with 50 chickens, but they have freedom to roam all throughout the property during the day. And if we ever do need to keep them indoors then we open up the full barn to them.

Design

Most pole barns have poles that make up the exterior walls every 8’ on center. I found it easiest to align the walls of my coop with these poles or posts and work off of those. With sticking to those 8’ dimensions both for the length and width of the coop that made buying materials easy and more affordable. Lumber in 8’ lengths is common to come by and 4’x8’ plywood sheets worked great for the walls and ceiling.

The height of your walls is also a consideration. It’s important 1) for ventilation, and 2) for visibility. I made the front wall of the coop only 2’ high with chicken wire the rest of the way up so kids would easily be able to see into the coop. The side walls I made 4’ high with chicken wire the rest of the way up. This allowed me to easily mount laying boxes onto that side wall.

I’d recommend against building solid walls all the way up. Walls that are 2’ or 4’ high with chicken wire or hardware cloth the rest of the way up provide much needed air flow to ventilate your coop. Barns can get warm in the summer months but we’ve found that with the barn doors open, the chickens get the cross ventilation they need with a more open coop design.

Storage

Depending on the size of your coop and how much room you have in the rest of your barn, you may not want to lose that much space in storage. This was true for us. So instead of building the coop the full height of our barn, I left a couple feet between the top of the coop and roof trusses. This allows me to store lots of supplies in the off season like electro netting fencing, hoses, drip irrigation, and spare lumber.

To do this, I built the ceiling of the coop strong enough to support some weight and lined it with 1/2” plywood on top. This both sealed it off on top form predators and makes for a nice sturdy storage surface.

Materials

Since this project uses really basic materials, I always recommend using repurposed materials whenever possible. Use an old door you already have lying around. Look on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for things like sheets of plywood, lumber, and the concrete blocks. This can be a very affordable coop if you can source most of the materials used. And it will probably add lots of character!

chicken tractor made with repurposed materials

I had the unfortunate timing of building our coop right in the middle of the 2020 lumber shortage. I searched for used lumber for months without any great options. So for this coop I had to buy most of the materials new. But when we lived in the suburbs, I was able to build a smaller portable A-frame coop that we built entirely out of an old wooden kids playset and used fencing.

How To Build a Chicken Coop in an Existing Barn

Every barn and coop design are going to be different. But I’ll walk you through the steps and techniques I used to build our 8’ x 16’ chicken coop inside our barn.

Step 1 – Install your foundation

Unless your barn already has a concrete floor, you’ll need to install a solid foundation to build on. This will also serve to predator proof the bottom side of your cop – see note above.

To start, layout where your walls will sit. Dig a trench in line with your walls deep enough for your concrete blocks to sit leaving 1-2” of the block exposed above ground level. Do this on all four sides.

Next, compact the base of the trench as much as possible using either a compaction tool, the head of a sledge hammer, or your foot.

Add about 1” of sand to the bottom of the trench. Install the concrete blocks, leveling them as you go using a 4’ level. In some instances you may want to use a very straight 2×4 vertically oriented with the level on top to span further distances. Add or subtract sand beneath the blocks as needed until your blocks are level throughout.

Note: I used 4”x8”x16” solid concrete blocks. I oriented them horizontally meaning they went down about 7”. We have not had issues with predators digging beneath them, but for additional predator proofing, you can orient the blocks vertically to go 16” down.

Step 2 – Build your walls

This coop uses basic wall construction with a bottom plate, vertical studs, and a top plate.

Our walls were 8’ high and I built them flat on the ground and then moved them into place. The bottom plate should be treated 2×4’s since it will sit directly on the concrete block and likely be exposed to moisture in the ground level of the coop. The rest of the coop can be built with standard construction lumber.

I spaced my studs 24” on center, which is plenty sturdy for a coop. Along the front wall I used 4×4” posts and spaced them 48” on center. This allowed for greater visibility inside the coop.

You will also need to frame out your door(s) at this point.

If you have a preference of fasteners to assemble the walls or own a nail gun, that is great! I use screws when assembling walls. But don’t use just any screws! Standard Philips head screws are outdated, will strip out, and leave you really frustrated. Spend a little extra and buy t-25 star head coated screws. They drive in so easily and the coating will stand up to the moisture of a coop and barn.

Step 3 – Install chicken wire

Yes, I’m recommending you install the chicken wire (or hardware cloth) on the walls before setting them in place! In my experience, getting a nice tight and secure install on chicken wire is so much easier when the walls are laying down versus trying to install it vertically. But, installing the chicken wire after the walls are in place is also an option. I did a mix of both.

I purchased 4’ wide chicken wire. Since each of the wall sections I built were 8’ wide, the 4’ chicken wire worked perfectly.

If you have an air compressor and a brad nailer that will accommodate staples, that will make this step SO much easier. Otherwise, you can also use a mechanical stapler, but your hand will be cramped and worn out by the end!

Staple a straight line of chicken wire on either the top or bottom of your wall panel. Continue stapling the chicken wire along the rest of the wall pulling it tight as you go. Having an extra person helping to keep the chicken wire tight and straight makes the job much easier!

Step 4 – Assemble your walls

Move your walls on top of your foundation. Use a level to make sure the walls are level vertically. Have a couple spare 2×4’s on hand to temporally brace the walls together so they stay level.

Screw the wall panels together every couple feet where they meet so they are secure.

assembling walls of chicken coop inside barn

This is optional, but I did drill a couple holes with a masonry bit through the bottom treated plate on each wall section into the concrete blocks and installed a Tapcon screw. These screws are specifically designed to work with masonry. They’ll help to make sure the walls stay in place on the foundation.

Step 5 – Build your ceiling

To build a ceiling to your coop sturdy enough to store materials on top, you’ll want a beam along the center of the coop. I used a double 2×6 beam.

I then hung 2×4 joist off the center beam every 24” on center. The joists spanned from the center beam to the side walls of the coop. On the center beam I supported the joists using a metal joist hanger. On the side walls, I installed a horizontal 2×4 ledger. This is basically a 2×4 that sat 3-1/2 below the height of the wall and was securely screwed to the vertical studs of the wall. The joist then rested on this ledger and were screwed in.

Finish the ceiling with 1/2” plywood sheets on top. Screw or nail the plywood to the joists and wall top plates. Remember to make sure it is secure so no predators can fit through gaps.

Step 6 – Add your finishes

Install the plywood or paneling to finish out the walls of your coop. I found that 4’x8’ sheets of plywood worked perfectly with this coop size since you just need to cut them in half for the 4’ walls and in quarters for the 2’ walls.

interior walls of chicken coop inside barn

For the exterior walls I used a 3/4” exterior grade plywood with a groove pattern in it. For the interior walls, I used 1/4” plywood with a beadboard pattern. And for the front I used tongue and groove boards I had leftover from a house project. All of these materials are pretty standard at hardware stores.

And finally you can install your door!

Step 7 – Make it chicken friendly!

You now have a coop! Now you just need some feathered flock furnishings to finish things off. This should include feeders, waterers, laying boxes, and a roost.

A basic feeder and waterer from your local farm supply store will do the trick. Depending on your flock size, you may consider more than one of each. If you’re concerned with your chickens water freezing during the winter, we came up with this Easy DIY Heated Chicken Waterer design after trying other methods that were either really expensive or didn’t work.

Laying boxes don’t need to be anything fancy. Ours are just constructed out of a sheet of 1/2” plywood. You can also repurpose old drawers from a desk or dresser that add a nice touch and charm!

There are a lot of roost designs and philosophies out there. I figure a bird would typically just roost on a tree branch so that’s the route I went. I collected up some tree branches from around our property, screwed them together to make a ladder and leaned it against the barn wall inside the coop. It’s worked out great!

The last thing you’ll need is to line the floor of your coop with straw, wood chips, or wood shavings as a bedding for your birds.

And you’re all set!

Chicken Coop Inside Barn – Advantages & Disadvantages

We have seen a bunch of advantages to having your chickens inside your barn, with just a couple disadvantages. Let’s look at those.

Advantages

Stays dry

Barns already have a solid roof overhead. And most have solid walls too. This allows the construction of your barn coop to stay pretty simple without needing to make it tight from the elements. With regular cleaning, your chickens will stay happy and dry in your barn coop!

Extra protection

Really having a coop within a barn is almost like having an extra layer of protection form predators getting to your chickens. If your barn is sealed up good and you build your coop to keep predators out, you can rest easy at night knowing your gals are safe and secure.

Water and supplies close by

Most barns are already equipped with a water supply, electrical supply, and you can easily add a place to store food. We just use an old refrigerator that stopped working to store bags of feed in! This makes doing chores a breeze instead of needing run hoses long distances or lug buckets of food and water to a coop.

Ventilation in summer

Most barns have large doors that can be opened up or have built in ventilation in the roof. Barns can warm up quickly in the summer heat. We have large doors we open up on both sides of the barn and this provides the perfect cross ventilation to keep the coop comfortable.

Warmth in winter

Barns can also be closed up tight to trap in heat during the cold winter months. I remember when we had smaller standalone coops doing things like running heat lamps and wrapping plastic around the coop to trap heat. That was expensive and just doesn’t look great. The barn has kept our chickens plenty warm without any extra measures needed.

I will note that part of the project I intended to get to but haven’t yet was to frame out the exterior barn wall inside the coop to add paneling and insulation to it. This is the one vulnerable area where cold air enters the coop. An extra wall layer and some insulation would really help keep the cold out.

Disadvantages

Lose barn space

Space in your barn can definitely be a premium. I get that. And you do lose space with a barn coop that you might have other uses for. But with still being able to store supplies on top of our coop, we found the lost space is not as big of an issue as we might have thought initially.

Dust

Chickens stir up dust. It’s what they do. Like, absurd amounts of it. You can clean your barn and come back two days later and find it just as dusty as before. If that’s a big concern for you or you use your barn for other activities that don’t mingle well with dust, then a coop in your barn might not be the right fit.

Poop

It’s definitely possible to add a door directly to the outside and keep the rest of your barn sealed off from chickens getting in. But doing so can be a challenge. Our chickens have free-reign of the whole barn and we all know what that means. Poop. Everywhere. Again, if you don’t have a good plan of how you’d chicken proof the rest of your barn, then you’d better let the poop reality settle in before building your coop.

Sunlight

Some barns are low on sunlight. Ours at least has some clear transom panels that let in light along the walls. Plus we keep the doors open during the day. But it’s still fairly dark in there. When I do frame out that exterior barn wall in the coop I plan to add some windows for extra light and ventilation.

Looking for more chicken raising tips and tricks? Check out these posts:

Simple Outdoor Chicken Brooder Ideas

How To Care For Baby Chicks

Easy DIY Heated Chicken Waterer

Chicken Tractor Plans for 25 Chickens

September 11, 2022 10 comments